Maison de Cerisier, Hachiyamacho (Daikanyama) メゾン・ド・スリジェ 鉢山町

I recently made the mistake of walking to lunch from Ebisu to Daikanyama in the middle of rainy season. By the time I arrived at my destination, Maison de Cerisier, I must have looked like a drowned rat. It took a couple of moments to establish my credentials by quoting the name of the booking, after which the welcome became less suspicious and the chef came out to greet me telling the man at the counter to give me a glass of ice tea. Cerisier has an interesting layout with a little cake counter, bathroom and kitchen on the ground floor and the dining room on the first floor. Once my slightly less soaked dining partner arrived we were led upstairs. The dining room is really cosy but cleverly divided for a modicum of privacy and not at all cramped. The exposed beams on the ceiling make for an interesting feature.

There are two menus that you can order for Sunday lunch, the first being an A course for 2,800 and B for 3,800. The A gives you an amuse, entree, main and dessert. The B adds another entree. Feeling slightly more indulgent than usual I opted for the B, but not before I ordered a delicious glass of Pol Roger champagne (which could have been slightly better chilled). Lunch opened with an amuse of a slice of chicken tsukune edged with anago on a coulis of cucumber. For the first entree we were served a selection of different amuses. There was smoked chicken, scallop parfait, liver terrine, corn mousse with caviar and fresh tomato, basil, mashed potato topped with tapenade and a spec of gold leaf! This was followed by a shooter of cold cream potage with chives. Out of these I thought the corn mousse was the most memorable, being light as air but powerful in taste. I had to ask the waiter for the wine list, which turned out to be limited to about eight "wines of the day". I ordered a carafe of Deux Tours Sauvignon Blanc, which I have to admit I did not really enjoy that much, finding it a little on the sweet side.

This was followed by the second entree of whelk (tsubugai) and mushroom cooked in butter and garlic. These tasted almost the same as escargot and went very nicely with the mushroom. For my main I ordered a wagyu sirloin medium rare which came out beautifully cooked and served with capsicum, mashed potato and mushroom and green leaves. The dessert was a delicious strawberry and vanilla sorbet with an airy pineapple mousse. This was followed by an unexpected second course of a grapefruit jelly and blanc manger. As I had asked the waiter not to put too much fruit in my dessert, I got a piece of chocolate instead of grapefruit (actually I would have eaten the grapefruit, but I didn't want to bore the poor waiter with the details of my likes and dislikes in the fruit department - suffice it to say it usually makes people laugh when I describe what I will and won't eat).

The service was very attentive and the food was of a very high standard. If chef just brought the refinement and execution of the food (and the wine) just up a notch or two they would be rubbing shoulders with the best in Tokyo. As it stands, they're not quite there yet but their effort is evident and I would highly recommend you give them a go.

メゾン・スリジェ (代官山)


日曜日のランチには、2種類のメニューが用意されておりそれぞれAコースは2,800円、Bコースは3,800円である。Aコースには、アミューズに前菜とメインからデザート、Bコースは前菜がAよりもうひとつ多く楽しめるように用意されていた。迷わず私を甘やかすかのようにBコースを選び、ポル・ロジェのシャンパンまで堪能した。欲を言えば、もう少し冷えていたほうが私の好みに合っていた。ランチはアミューズに始まり、きゅうりのクーリをスライスされたつくねとあなごに加えたものであった。前菜はいつくかのアミューズからなっており、次の中から選べた。スモークチキン、ホタテのパフェ、レバのテリーヌ、キャビアのコーンムース、フレッシュトマト、バジル、とタプナードと金色の葉でトッピングしたマッシュド・ポテトで、最後の選択はコールド・クリーム・ポタジエにチャイブで仕上げたもの。この中で私のお気に入りは、コーンムース。少量にも関わらず個性のある味であった。ここで、私はワインリストから8本に厳選された今日のワインにあった、ドゥトゥール ソービニヨンブラン(Deux Tours Sauvignon Blanc)を選んだ。思ったよりも甘く、正直私の好みではなかった。


Tel: 03-6413-1820


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