Aquavit, Kita Aoyama

I have had dinner twice at Aquavit, first about a year ago and then much more recently. This slick Kita Aoyama restaurant located under the Oracle building and in the concourse behind the Lexus dealer recently celebrated its first anniversary. It bills itself as "modern Scandanavian" (great if you like salmon), and a franchise of a restaurant of the same name in New York City.

My impression of the restaurant after the first visit was a good one, with great interior design, a very personable European sommelier, good food, and efficient service. On my more recent visit I have to admit to having been slightly underwhelmed, and thinking that standards have slipped. Upon arrival my party of three was offered a table in the bar area to have some drinks. This was nice enough, but we were left alone long enough for me to begin to wonder if we were ever going to be sat at the table (this is a common risk I've found in Tokyo when you agree to a drink at the bar). Incidentally, at one point later in the evening we were all served what I think was some chilled vodkas, only to have them whisked away when the waitress realised she had served the wrong table. I suspect there is a better way to recover from such a faux pas! Later the main meals were served to the wrong people, a situation that we rectified ourselves. Not what you'd expect from a restaurant of such pretensions as this.

Eventually we were led to our table and menus were handed out, but only one menu showing the tasting menus was given, which meant that after handing the menus around I didn't really get to see what was on there properly until they arrived to take the order. Nevertheless I decided to order the chef's tasting menu and the bottomless glass of Mumm (now that's a good idea!).

The tasting menu consisted of an amuse of something foie gras-ish on a spoon, a sampler of tidbits including some smoked salmon and fish eggy and creamy things, a quite good foie gras ganache, some fairly average scampi and scallop served in a bowl with saffron cream soup, a main of a fairly bland, small piece of rare grilled beef with creamed spinach, what tasted like re-heated potato and some onion "marmalade" (except the onion was whole), then a sampler of desserts followed by some petit fours and coffee. I think there was one dish I can't remember but, to be brutally honest, either the food wasn't that memorable or the company was way more stimulating.

Even though they just scrape into my three star level, I'm sorry to say that I won't be rushing back to Acquavit anytime soon unless there is a proper revamp. The staff are pleasant enough, but they do not quite offer a level of food and service equal to the image and the price.

http://www.aquavit-japan.com/index_e.html

Tel: 03-5413-3300

Ninja, Akasaka

What's a serious blog like mine (tongue firmly in cheek) doing reviewing a shameless tourist trap like Ninja? I mean, this restaurant even appears in the Qantas in-flight video on what to do in Tokyo! Expectations would therefore have to be very low in the food department, even if the ninjas are guaranteed to delight anyone under the age of 12. After a recent dinner at Ninja with a 4 and 6 year old I can confirm that they are indeed delighted by the place - my 6 year old nephew gushing it's the "coolest place in the whole world!". But it's pretty entertaining for adults too. I don't want to ruin the experience by telling you too much about how you get to the table, suffice it to say that the ninjas are surprising, friendly and just a bit tricky!!

Although the ninjas give you some thrills and spills, the food is the biggest surprise of all. Contrary to my expectation, even though we may not be seeing Ninja in the Michelin guide any day soon, the food is quite creative and, overall, very good. We ordered the least expensive set which (for some numerological reason?) is priced at 7,777 yen. After having sampled it I can't imagine how anyone could eat more than that, but there are more lavish set menus on offer.

The first event of the evening was pastry ninja stars served on some twigs with a foie gras spread - now that took some thinking! This was followed by a lobster pudding topped with dried-fried yuzu shreds. Next tempura vegetables served with a soy sauce foam were served. After this "exploding" sea snails were served, which the waitress helpfully set fire to. This was followed by a shot of eggplant with foam, then a tartare of tuna topped with avocado. Following this our waitress took some fresh vegetables in a wooden bucket and added some hot stones as the first stage in preparing a delicious tom yung soup for us (yes I know-Thai?). This was followed by a fish or beef main. I ordered the beef and this came with foie gras in a little covered dish and was not bad. As a final savoury dish we were served some sushi of tempura prawn and some maki rolls of purple rice, which was a hit. Dessert was a sorbet topped with a cream mousse on a bed of stewed fruits. This was topped off by coffee.

The kids had their own plate of yummy things that kids like - such as croquette, hamburger etc and a great little dessert which is pictured here. Our group found Ninja to be thoroughly entertaining, and the food to be of a level that would stand up well even without the theme. I can't recommend the combination of food and entertainment enough which, as a package, is something pretty rare - so I give it 4 stars. The Ninja concept screams cheesy, but it's not - and I'd be happy to take any visitor to Tokyo there!

http://www.ninjaakasaka.com/

Tel: 03-5157-3936

Dazzle, Ginza ダズル 銀座

I can't imagine how a place with a name as outrageous as "Dazzle" escaped my attention for so long. I'm not such a frequent diner in glittering Ginza, but last month when I wanted to find somewhere suitably dazzling to take some clients I stumbled across it on a last-minute web search, hoping that the name was a promise.　

I don't know about dazzling, but it's actually not too bad; and as I've been back since I can report on the balance of two experiences. The restaurant is at the top of the Mikimoto building in Ginza, adjacent to Printemps. The Mikimoto building is one of the more interesting in Ginza, featuring an asymmetrical/ naturalistic (I wish I knew the right architectural term) window treatment up and down the length of the building.

Upon arrival at Dazzle the elevator opens onto the kitchen and you are greeted by several staff with suitably dazzling smiles. There is a bar off to the side, where you may be parked for a while as we were on our second visit, or taken to another elevator which delivers you to the impressive high-concept, high-ceilinged dining room. A two-storey, part-funnel shaped glass wine cellar forms a very interesting feature in one corner.

My first impression was of a rather shallow, image-driven place somewhat like XEX Daikanyama; but unlike XEX the food actually tastes as good as it looks. On both visits as a pre-starter I partook of the oysters, which come in various creative dressings such as limoncello and mandarin, and I would say are about the best thing on the menu. Both times I ordered the crab cakes for entree and chef's special pasta for the main (I wish I could remember what it was on the first visit - on the second it was a pleasant blue-cheese ravioli). On my more recent visit I almost died with jealousy when my dining partner's wagyu arrived. She was kind enough to give me a decent piece off her wagyu mountain (very generous serving) which was impossibly rich and decadent - as wagyu should be. For dessert I highly recommend the fondant chocolat, which might just be the nicest I've eaten in recent memory.

Overall, even though the menu is too short for my liking, I'd rate the food above average - surprisingly good for a "concept" restaurant. The service is willing, but doesn't quite come together as it should in some niggly ways such as forgetting to take the wine order. I like the Aussie maitre d', but my French dining partner on the second visit found him slightly intrusive and insincere (la belle dame sans merci!). I think he's trying to do his job well, but can see how he would have created that impression. A bit more experience will round him out a bit. I think a bit more rounding is the order of the day for Dazzle - just a bit of a push on the execution and this could be a really great place.

http://www.restaurant-dazzle.com/

Tel: 03-5159-0991

The Hump, Marunouchi ザハンプ 丸の内

Why would you call a sushi bar The Hump? Why would you call anything other than a pole dancing bar something like that? Actually according to Wikipedia "The Hump" was the name given by Allied pilots in the Second World War to the eastern end of the Himalayan Mountains over which they flew from India to China to resupply the Flying Tigers and the Chinese Government of Chiang Kai-shek. So NOW I realise why this place whose alma mater is located at Santa Monica airport in LA is so named.

I recently humped on over for lunch at their branch in Marunouchi and scored a table facing the imperial palace moat. Hands down I can't think of anywhere more appropriate to eat what I guess for most people seems like Japan's national dish facing the seat of the chrysanthemum throne. Priceless, as they say on telly.

The concept of The Hump is modern Californian sushi. Having experienced what they whip up in California and call "sushi", I find the selection more Japanese than Californian, though one can definitely see the influence in the spicy "LA" rolls. Rainbow Roll Sushi at Azabu is, to my mind, more Californian and daring in deviating from the local sushi formula, but this does not detract in any way from The Hump.

I ordered a 2,500 yen bento which included some salad, tempura, braised chicken, sashimi, sushi and LA rolls, and was followed by a litte scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. My dining partner ordered the 1,600 yen California maki plate. Not being able to help myself I washed mine down with a glass of Roederer which set me back another 1,500 - but was so right.

I'd encourage you to check The Hump out. The staff are really sweet, the food is of very good quality and the setting is just about the best you could ask for - especially if you're entertaining foreigners in need of some humping good sushi.


http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g188304/
Tel: 03-5293-4813

Les Creations de Narisawa, Minami Aoyama レ･クレアシヨン・ド・ナリサワ 南青山

Yoshihiro Narisawa at Creations de Narisawa apprenticed with both Bocuse and Robuchon, so it's hard to imagine a better pedigree in French cooking that this still-young chef could have had. His restaurant, which is located under the Sony building in Minami Aoyama, opened in 2003 and since then has received a string of accolades, including a Michelin star and being named by San Pellegrino water as one of the top 20 restaurants in the world (on my blog you can read about one of the others - Tetsuyas).

After dining there I can confirm that all the accolades are well deserved. Indeed, I really need to question why this restaurant has only one Michelin star when you compare it to other places in Tokyo which are supposedly on the same level. Creations is clearly aiming for a class above. The first thing that sets it apart is its ultra-modern "waiting room" where you are asked to sit before the electric doors slide open and your waiter leads you to your seat.

There is a studied, deliberate coldness both about the room and the serving staff who do quite a good impression of expressionless androids; which is quite disconcerting at first. However I set out to see if I could subtly melt this down a bit, and as the evening wore on I'm happy to say that both our waiters became steadily more human and even Mr Narisawa himself came out to say hi - and couldn't have been more friendly. Hmm - I know they're trying to focus all attention on the food with the minimalism, but I think people, at the end of the day, want a human experience too when they dine out. I think one shouldn't really attempt to separate this from the food.

I'm going to show a pic of each dish that was served on the “o-makase” menu (the only choice available) with a little description. I opted for the paired wines which took all the work out of deciding how to wash it all down. Just one final point - if you need to ask how much this meal was then you won't be able to afford it. I’ll be paying this one off in installments ;-0

Amuse of Sea Urchin with Kyoto onion.

Fresh as can be - delicious!

Aji (a white fish), mozzarella and beans.

The sauce was kind of savoury - great!

This is not a pot-plant. It's actually butter and the "dirt" is like a tapenade. This went down well with the bread, which was divine - especially the black bread.

Finger lickin' good fried frog, served with poached egg, frog foam and summer truffles. It tasted as good as it looked.





Abalone, served with dry ice/"ashes"and a capsicum sauce. Entertaining.

Kyoto eggplant topped with mushroom, petals, pine nuts and a curtain of tomato jelly. Fresh and playful!

This little critter is an "Ayu" - a freshwater fish. It's billed as a sweet fish but was actualy rather bitter. More interesting than enjoyable to eat.






Eel, foie gras and mango. Served under a dome containing fragrant incense - wow. Stupidly, I opted out of this one.




Instead I got a rather nice little monkfish and clam dish.

The main event - Matsuzaka beef slow cooked in charcoal or "sumi" with a side of slimy girolle mushies. It tasted every bit as good as you'd expect.

"Pina Colada". Good little mouth freshener.

Ice cream with chamomile foam, strawberry and rhubarb. The glass dish it was served on was cool as!

This is not pictured but there was a huge cart of petit fours, savarins, choc pudding that was served with coffee. Yum!!

http://www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com/concept_e.html

Tel: 03-5785-0799