Cuisine(s) Michel Troisgros, Shinjuku キュイジーヌ[s] ミッシェル・トロワグロ 新宿

It was with trembling anticipation that I looked forward to my dinner at Cuisine(s) Michel Troisgros. This is only the second 2 star Michelin establishment that I have been to in my life, the other being Bastide St Antoine in Grasse some years ago, and of that I have only faded memories of everything tasting of butter and truffles. One tries not to be overly sucked into the Michelin star system, but without doubt it adds to the expectations and the pleasure if those expectations are met.

First off, I feel that I must compliment the service at Troisgros, which is flawless. Unlike some establishments where I have complained that the abundance of waitstaff actually detracts from the service, Troisgros seems to use its staff well and so I won't whinge too much about the 10% service charge. I think it also helped that on the Tuesday evening in question the restaurant was not at all crowded.

After starting off with a couple of glasses of Taittinger Rose Champagne, my dining partner and I chose the larger set menu of the two on offer, costing 18,900 yen. This morning, as I write this, my overhanging tummy makes me think this was a Romanesque level of extravagance. Before we had even ordered, we were served a plate of amuses comprising of a thinly sliced pineapple on a thin biscuit, a china spoon with a cherry tomato in jelly and a small cheese puff. Once we had ordered the menu another amuse of two small pieces of mackerel sushi on a powerful acidic dashi jelly was served. This was followed by a beautifully presented plate consisting of a checkerboard of thin slices of scallop, truffle and basil on a thin melba toast. The combination of flavours worked pretty well. This was followed by an exquisitely presented plate of peppered cod on a sunburst of passionfruit coulis with little leaves of oregano scattered around the rim. The herb, passionfruit and fish worked well. This was followed by buttered lobster meat, including some claw meat with tapenade and some onion. This tasted alright, but I did wonder if it was fresh or not. Then came the main event - a candied pigeon breast with its little drumstick hiding under a slice of cooked lemon. This was served with an orange and pepper gravy. Hmm. Well I can't say I'm a fan of the pigeon, but this has nothing to do with the skill with which it was cooked - just a bit too gamey for me.

This was followed by the unexpected highlight of the evening - the cheeses. Around cheese time we looked around and noticed that there was nobody else left in the dining room. It was before ten o'clock so perhaps being a school night and all, the locals had all begun the long journey home from Nishi-Shinjuku. This gave us a good opportunity to catch up with the maitre d'hotel. He offered us extra special servings of the cheeses on offer which included a delicious brie sandwich of mascarpone and truffle. The was followed by a PRE-dessert of a small pea tart topped with strawberry, served with ice cream. The main dessert event was a airy chocolate cake (actually it wasn't really a cake but I think off-hand what to call it) served with ice cream, a slice of beetroot and some beetroot jelly. For me, the combination of flavours in this dish was the most interesting of the evening and I enjoyed it to the last crumb. This was followed by coffee and petit fours which featured a yummy mini beignet dusted with icing sugar.

As I look back on it I can't believe we managed to put all this food away! All in all, it was a great dinner and a lovely experience. I wasn't too enamoured of the half bottle of Louis Latour Puligny Montrachet (2004) that I ordered to go along with the dinner, but I am early on my discovery of good wine so I should not say too much. I will say though that I suspect lunch would be much better value for money than dinner so, if anything, I would recommend you try Troisgros at lunch. Once I have paid off the credit card this is something I intend to do myself.

ミッシェル・トロワグワ (新宿)





Tel: 03-3348-1234


Popular Posts