Terres de Truffes, Roppongi テールドトリュフトウキョウ 六本木ヒルズ

Terres de Truffes is a temple of worship to the truffle, which you can find in one of the many lonely corners of Roppongi Hills. Roppongi Hills is, to my mind, a dog's breakfast in terms of design. I have been going there since it opened and I still manage to get lost every time I go there. Tokyo Midtown stands in stark contrast to Roppongi Hills, being well designed, easy to navigate and always full of people.

Every dish at Terres de Truffes contains truffle - that's the shtick here. For around 8,000 yen you can order a lunch set which includes an amuse, entrée, main, cheese and dessert. It's a pretty penny but if you crave this black fungus it's not a bad way to satisfy the craving. On a recent visit I sampled the set, ordering the blinis to start and the potato for main. My dining partner deviated from me only in the selection of the carbonara for his main. This was followed by a delicious cheese plate and a large scoop of ice-cream with caramel truffle sauce.

All the food was beautifully cooked and the ambiance is very luxurious - not unlike an upscale American steak house (the bull horn light fittings certainly help create that atmosphere). I have to say though that in order to justify the price they are going to need to offer more than just bits and pieces of food with lots of cream with a few microns of truffle scrapings. It's a cute idea, but I have to wonder about its staying power. The food's good, but not that stimulating if not for the truffle scrapes. Hmmm - I have to wonder what type of market still remains for this type of gimmicky indulgence. I suspect, sadly, that this costly curiosity of limited recessionary relevance may not be around for much longer.

Tel: 03-5786-6655


Jon said…
Dom, I think it was my (urban planner) aunt who told me she read that Roppongi Hillz was designed to be confusing, so that it would always be surprising. Your comments are right on though - after working there for 4 years, I still got lost too! And TdT seems like they managed to ride the very front of the wave as it crashed, so it shouldn't last long.
Dom said…
RH is an overhyped architect's wet dream. they'll probably keep it on life support forever but there's no real pulse in the patient. actually my hairdresser thinks RH is cursed, but i'm not sure i'd go that far...

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