moRi, Ebisu

I write with no shame that I am a semi-regular connoisseur of the "B-O-M" (this to the uninitiated is the blow-out-meal). The components of the BOM consist of more courses than you would eat in a normal week, rich sauces that would make a cardiologist blanch and enough wine to fuel a bacchanalian feast. For this reason, I write "semi-regular" as if it was any more regular than "semi", I would need to crane to get me out of the house. But for special occasions, there's nothing more enjoyable.

My latest foray was to moRi at Ebisu, a cosy, inviting French restaurant in Ebisu. There are some tables in the restaurant, but the best seats are at the counter where you can watch every detail of the cooking. How chef Mori is able to produce such a large amount of food in such a small space is beyond me. It is certainly heads down and tails up for everyone working there, but he was not too busy at the end of the evening to graciously farewell my dining partner and I with a full bow.

But I didn't go here to receive a full bow, charming as it was. The food was thoughtfully conceived and more than satisfying. The chef is the only one cooking and I felt that it was really evident that some parts of the meal would have benefited from fresher preparation, as several were taken out of the fridge. Also his assistant was so busy through the night, he did kind of neglect the wine side of things. These things are not deal-breakers, but they do take away from one's enjoyment somewhat. Nevertheless I would be happy to recommend moRi, especially for a date with someone special!

Amuse of ratatouille bavarois, tomato mousse (my pick of the three), and the lollipop on the right is a roll of pork rillete. 

"Kabu", which is a type of root and yogurt. This was a little bit on the heavy side, but good nonetheless.

Pork consommé with the house white ham. This was very tasty - definitely a step above what I eat out of the packet when I need to warm myself up in these winter months.

Foie gras wrapped in crepe. Just a personal preference, but I would have liked it a bit crispier, but it was totally nice as it was.

This was an interesting one - fish liver. With its fishier taste, somewhat of a contrast with the foie gras.

This is a lobster croquette with a crustacean soup. Certainly a classier croquette than I'm used to eating!

This is a rare wagyu with potato and truffle, with bordelaise sauce.

Dessert was a chocolate mousse.

Tel: 03-5942-6299


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