Really I don't know why soba can be so expensive, especially when it seems so plain and the servings can tend on the small side. I have to admit though that I am increasingly drawn to its subtle pleasures. Kawakamian in Azabu Juban is a favourite of many and on a recent lunch I had the chance to try it. It's a basement restaurant, decorated in an attractive Japanese style, perhaps in need of a lick of paint. A colleague told me that the store has its origins in Karuizawa, and that Nagano (traditional name Shinshuu) is renowned for making some of the best soba in Japan. Knowing this certainly adds some pleasure to the experience!
Deep fried soba with salt (moreish!) and soba tea
Oyster tempura soba