Hotel de Mikuni, Wakaba  オテルドゥミクニ若葉

No dining blog in Tokyo would be complete without a post on Hotel de Mikuni. This Tokyo institution, which opened way back in 1985, is located in a residential area that's kind of hard to describe: sort of between Aoyama and Shinjuku. In any case, definitely use a map!

I have been wanting to try Mikuni for over a decade, but never had quite the right occasion until my colleague, celebrating her 30th anniversary of starting out in Japan, suggested it. When she had arrived in Tokyo, Mikuni was the last word in style and the place to see and be seen. This is no longer the case, but place does still exude a certain glamour and sense of place. Mr Mikuni's intelligent and artful presence is stamped all over.

After being led through the kitchen to our table (I believe this may be a more recent touch, with the overall diner experience in mind) we were seated at a table in a dining room packed to the rafters with elegant obasans and a few trailing spouses sprinkled around the room.

Well, onto the food. Absolutely faultless. Not the most innovative around, but that's not what this place is about. I have a theory that French restaurants in Tokyo continue to perfect the style of cuisine that was in vogue at the time the chef studied in France. This may or may not be the case here, but as I tell myself that, the sense that I may be stepping a little bit back in time really adds to the enjoyment.


Summer compote of summer vegetables with 'Ayu'

Salmon 'mi-cuit' with a delicious sorrel sauce

Matsuzaka beef with truffles

Plum fromage blanc

Sorbet and blanc manger

Petit fours
Tel: 03-3351-3810


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