Recently, with a view to impressing an important visitor from overseas, I set myself the task of finding the quintessential modern Tokyo restaurant. This would be a place with stunning interior design, superlative service and a menu painting from a varied ethnic palate, but assembled with exquisite Japanese sensibility.
I took a punt on the well-reputed Editions Koji Shimomura in Roppongi, and my hopes were met beautifully. The setting and service are impeccable and carry with them a sense of occasion. Upon arrival we were presented with some magic expanding oshibori. In dry form they come as tablets which the waiter placed in a shot glass with some water. They extended to full length almost instantly, giving a theatrical opening to the meal.
My dining partner and I opted for the "Menu Edition", the top of the range omakase course, which is priced at 21,000 yen. This is expensive, to be sure, but the wines are very reasonably priced so it seemed to balance out and overall the meal was not staggeringly expensive.
Our evening started with an amuse of a baby beef burger. This was followed by liver mousse in a tall shot glass with a red jelly. Next was a delicious foie gras.
The most interesting dish of the evening (which I have lifted from their website) was John Dory and lobster, wrapped in noodles and deep fried
with Indian spices. The combination of tastes and textures was unexpected and evocative.
The meat of the evening was a very rare and very edible roast duck. We chased this up with a delicious selection of cheeses of the cow and goat variety.
There were two dessert courses, and each would have sufficed as a dessert on its own (and this is not a complaint!). The first was a lychee, coconut and pineapple mousse. The finale was a chocolate ice cream served not with cream or ice cream, but with olive oil.
Editions Koji Shimomura offers an exemplary modern Tokyo dining experience, and I would not hesitate to recommend it to you whether your goal be love or money.