Eating Out in Tokyo With Dominic

Atelui, Ebisu あてるい恵比寿

2012-02-05T23:49:00.003+09:00

Atelui bills itself as an Hokkaido dining and old rock bar. I'm sure many an old rock favourite has been heard over fresh as can be seafood delights from Hokkaido.

Apart from a menu of seafood and assorted other bar food they offer a fixed-price "tabehoudai" of oysters served either grilled or fresh for an hour or so. They don't exactly force them on you but if you keep pushing you will get your fill!

An Hokkaido resident hangs outside to greet you...

Fresh oysters

This fish is a "hoke", and it's completely tasty with a unique buttery mouthfeel.

Ikura's not totally my cup of tea but my dining partner went gaga over this pile!

Karaage was as good as it looks!

Potato croquette to finish - I needed something unhealthy after all that fish.

http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g788800/
Tel: 03-5784-2668

Retro, Azabu れとろ麻布

2012-02-05T12:45:00.001+09:00

Retro is a wine bar/ izakaya to be found a little off the beaten track on the Roppongi end of Azabu Juban (actually it's in Moto Azabu to be precise). There are no other shops or businesses in the immediate vicinity and the establishment takes up an entire house. There are tables and a counter area downstairs, as well as an upstairs area. The place is nicely decorated and the obis draped over a pole as a feature on the second floor are an interesting touch.

The food and wines are mostly French. On the night I visited my dining partner and I were the only customers in the restaurant which allowed us to speak very freely. I suspect that the place is usually not so crowded so if you are looking for somewhere intimate and relaxed this would be perfect.

I found all the food to be very good and wine, served by the glass, was delicious.

Kind of a retro luxe feel upstairs

Pâté de campagne was very tasty

The foie gras served with cinnamon pancake, strawberry and cream was decadently delicious!

As if it wasn't naughty enough already, the foie gras also came with some port!

This "butterfish" definitely lived up to its name making for a unique taste sensation.

The main dish was this rare pork served with Japanese vegetables (including gobo, to the chagrin of my dining partner, but he never offered it to me!)

Tarte tartin to finish

http://r.tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130702/13135999/dtlrvwlst/3706416/11191241/
Tel: 03-3478-2666

Tsunahachi, Nishi Shinjuku つな八西新宿

2012-02-05T12:01:00.000+09:00

If you're like me and you hate lining up for anything then I suggest you give the Nishi Shinjuku branch of Tsunahachi a try. Tsunahachi has branches all over the place and is famous for its delicious tempura. The honten (hq) is in Shinjuku, but if you walk just a little further you can go to the top of Opera City Tower, and you probably won't have to line up. Further, if you get a window seat the views are amazing. My suggestion would be to book ahead to get the window!

http://www.tunahachi.co.jp/

Tel: 03-5353-0278

Kotatsu, Azabu Juban 焼きの匠 KOTATSU 麻布十番

2012-01-28T12:04:00.000+09:00

Kotatsu is a little izakaya in Azabu Juban which is run by what seems like a happy and friendly team of young guys. They have a shortish menu and specialise in yakitori grilled-type thingies, but are not limited to that. I found the experience of dinner there to be quite enjoyable and more than happy to suggest you drop in if you're after something unpretentious and Japanese in Azabu-Juban.

http://r.gnavi.co.jp/e255508/lang/en/
Tel: 03-5730-7290

Shunju, Tameikesanno 春秋溜池山王

2012-01-23T20:56:00.004+09:00

Shunju is a well known izakaya at the top of the Sanno Park Tower in Tameikesanno. On the night I visited it was not at all crowded so my dining partner and I were lucky enough to get a window seat and enjoy the view out to Shinjuku. The ambiance on the night seemed chilled and quite laid-back - quite how I like it. Crowded, noisy, smoky izakaya do my head in!

The set we ordered was around 5,000 yen, which I think is quite good value for what was included. The flavours in some of the dishes were a little bland for my liking but, all in all, it's a nice set. The service is also very pleasant, so if have an out-of-towner to modestly entertain, I would try it out.

The seasonal appetiser (I wish I could remember what it was - the taste was not memorable)

Broiled tofu with miso meat sauce. Rich and spicy - yum!

Deep fried yam and "Shunju" croquette. I found these a little on the bland side.

Miso stewed beef cheek with organic vegetables. This was delicious.

Rice and fish to finish the savoury courses

Sorbet and fruit

http://www.shunju.com/ja/restaurants/tameikesanno/
Tel: 03-3592-5288

Ichi, Shirokanedai 壱白金台

2012-01-21T10:08:00.000+09:00

Ichi is a very good izakaya located off Meguro Dori in Shirokanedai. It is clearly a local neighbourhood favourite and doesn't even worry about having a website.

There is a comprehensive board of daily specials in the evening (you will need to read Japanese) as well as a daily lunch set, which is whatever they decide each day. The quality of the food is good, however the servings are skimpy and the service is extremely s l o w if they get more than a couple of groups in.

Despite this, for a local izakaya experience with high quality cooking, it's worth a look.

Excellent sashimi (but it was tiny!)

Prawn balls and daikon in broth were very fresh and delicious

Shiitake with cheese - very moreish

Fried tofu was beautifully cooked

Wagyu steak was delicious (especially with the wasabi to counter the fattiness)

Scallop with vegetable

http://r.tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131601/13130381/

Tel: 03-5422-9558

Furuken, Nishi Azabu　ふるけん西麻布

2012-01-20T21:55:00.000+09:00

Furuken is my ideal of the sophisticated yet intimate and casual Tokyo izakaya. Located in a street just behind Roppongi Dori (a world away, actually), it is a modestly sized establishment with a range of "washoku" dishes that reflect some European influence.

I don't know if I was particularly sensitive on the evening I visited there, but the fragrances from each dish seemed to be so strong and amazing - really much more noticeable than usual, and a sure indication of extremely fresh ingredients and skilful cooking.

Well worth a visit!

Interesting lids for the lacquer bowls

Fragrant mushroom soup (delicious). This was made in a "suri-nagashi" style.

Sashimi of "buri" (yellowtail) and "hirame" (flounder) accompanied by soy sauce, natto sauce, sour plum sauce and Japanese mustard.

This is their signature "chee-mushi" made with three kinds of cheese, abalone and white fish. Amazing!

Stewed octopus with gobo (a root vegetable) leaves. The octopus was tender as can be, but not in that stale mushy way it can sometimes get. Perfect.

Grilled "medai" (sea bream) - lovely sweet flesh

Tempura yellowtail in anakake dashi - great contrast of textures here

Daikon, "shungiku" (a Japanese herb) and fish chawan

Rice and crab ("kana" (crab) kamameshi (rice cooked in stoneware) to finish - excellent!

Strong, red miso soup (aka dashi)

A cassis and strawberry sorbet to freshen the palate

http://furu-ken.com/
Tel: 03-3409-2606

Celeb de Tomato, Daikanyama

2012-01-12T11:03:00.001+09:00

If you're into tomatoes then I have the cafe for you! Virtually everything on the menu (even the dessert) is made with tomatoes and you can select different grades of tomato juice to wash it down with. Service was slooooooow when I visited, but if you're up for something different give it a try.

http://www.celeb-de-tomato.com
Tel: 03-6416-1700

Aria, Sydney

2012-01-06T09:08:00.002+09:00

Tokyo Eater is at large in his home town of Sydney and I have just added another rule to my list - "Beware restaurants where the chef has a cookbook or TV show". I don't want to downgrade the achievements of anyone. I'm sure Mr Moran deserves all his accolades, and he's a much-loved TV star. It's just that I don't think the cooking at his "Aria" establishment at No 1 Macquarie Street Sydney is that good. This is a famous restaurant, a Sydney institution with amazing views (if you get a good table). What's not to like?

Well, the issue in my opinion is that after a while many restaurants, if they are successful enough, turn their kitchens into soulless production lines manned with fewer truly experienced cooks, while the original chef gets further and further away from the day to day. It's easy to sense passion in cooking, and I'm afraid that, even if at one point Aria had this quality, it doesn't have it now. Aria is a place where Sydney people go for special occasions because it's famous, has a view, and is expensive enough to feel like you're doing something extra special.

Certainly the prissy female wait-staff have this kind of attitude that you've just come in from the suburbs and they're going to put some real food in front of you. I don't want to be rude, but even though it has "two hats" from the Sydney Morning Herald the food would not rate in the Michelin guide if we had such a thing in Sydney (and for the record, I'm not arguing in favour of what Michelin does in Tokyo as I think it's pretty random).

But here's why I say this:

First, don't burn the bread. I was told it was from Iggy's at Clovelly as if that's meant to mean something. I have a tip for Iggy though - take the admittedly good sourdough out of the oven when it's done. I also think that in a restaurant like this you shouldn't have to ask for more bread or butter.

I always find the amuse bouche a danger zone. It sets the tone for the rest of the meal. This amuse of gazpacho with avocado mousse was nothing special.

The sashimi in the first course had no flavour at all. FYI to the chef, you are meant to serve sashimi at room temperature. It's not that hard to do. Also, the waitress helpfully told us not to worry that the wasabi (after helpfully explaining what wasabi was like we're idiots) was "not too spicy". Um, OK, why would you serve wasabi if it has no punch? To add insult to injury they substituted the yabby with a common prawn, which felt just a tad low-rent.

Further, I know comparisons are odious, but the presentation is not a patch on Quay. Compare pics if you want to see what I mean.

The foie gras mouse with duck was OK, but nothing mind-blowing.

The salmon with fennel and orange was the best dish of the evening. Very nicely cooked.

The peking duck soup is the speciality of the house. However the soup is WAY too heavy in flavour, and it completely overpowers the dumplings. A much lighter touch on the soup would allow the other flavours to shine IMO.

The pork head meat croquette and pork belly on apple sauce were tasty enough, but I think your average Asian restaurant would do something more interesting.

I felt that the lamb was rather bland. The lamb croquette gave a nice textural contrast though. My dining partner hated the potato and cheese ball, saying it tasted like it had been left out for ages and gone hard. It's probably true but it added a bit of flavour to the meat which needed it.

Rhubarb parfait (took AGES to come out, after the other courses which felt like they'd been rushed through). Way too sweet.

Strawberries and panna cotta was tasty. My dining partner felt it was the best dish of the evening (which was not a compliment to the meal).

Some petit fours to finish with our espresso.

So, this is what you get for A$160. With a bottle of Sancere, some water and a modest tip the bill for two came to $500. Actually in terms of international norms, I didn't think it was too expensive, but Aria is definitely not winning in the international league. There's nothing wrong with that either - just that perhaps compared to what could be achieved with more attention to detail, it's a pity for Sydney. I get it though. The kind of care that makes a restaurant in Tokyo great would just not be commercially worthwhile in Sydney. Just keep on pumping it out guys! It's noice enough.

http://www.ariarestaurant.com

Tel: +61 2 9252 2555

Kawakamian, Azabu Juban　川上案麻布十番

2011-12-18T10:43:00.001+09:00

Really I don't know why soba can be so expensive, especially when it seems so plain and the servings can tend on the small side. I have to admit though that I am increasingly drawn to its subtle pleasures. Kawakamian in Azabu Juban is a favourite of many and on a recent lunch I had the chance to try it. It's a basement restaurant, decorated in an attractive Japanese style, perhaps in need of a lick of paint. A colleague told me that the store has its origins in Karuizawa, and that Nagano (traditional name Shinshuu) is renowned for making some of the best soba in Japan. Knowing this certainly adds some pleasure to the experience!

Deep fried soba with salt (moreish!) and soba tea

Mochi soba

Oyster tempura soba

http://www.kawakamian.com
Tel: 03-5439-5757

Kathmandu Gangri, Meguro

2011-12-18T10:37:00.003+09:00

At Katmandu Gangri you can try Tibetan and Nepalese food in a spartan basement in Meguro. Sounds inviting? Well, come here for the spicy food, not the decor. The service is friendly and prices not too bad!

Dumplings - you spoon the sauce in!

Chicken stir fry

Chicken saag

Monster naan

Himalyan pizza - it's got a layer of meat under the cheese and quite a soggy pastry. I ate it with lots of curry sauce...

Prawn curry

http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g921200/
Tel: 03-3493-4712

moRi, Ebisu

2011-12-13T19:40:00.001+09:00

I write with no shame that I am a semi-regular connoisseur of the "B-O-M" (this to the uninitiated is the blow-out-meal). The components of the BOM consist of more courses than you would eat in a normal week, rich sauces that would make a cardiologist blanch and enough wine to fuel a bacchanalian feast. For this reason, I write "semi-regular" as if it was any more regular than "semi", I would need to crane to get me out of the house. But for special occasions, there's nothing more enjoyable.

My latest foray was to moRi at Ebisu, a cosy, inviting French restaurant in Ebisu. There are some tables in the restaurant, but the best seats are at the counter where you can watch every detail of the cooking. How chef Mori is able to produce such a large amount of food in such a small space is beyond me. It is certainly heads down and tails up for everyone working there, but he was not too busy at the end of the evening to graciously farewell my dining partner and I with a full bow.

But I didn't go here to receive a full bow, charming as it was. The food was thoughtfully conceived and more than satisfying. The chef is the only one cooking and I felt that it was really evident that some parts of the meal would have benefited from fresher preparation, as several were taken out of the fridge. Also his assistant was so busy through the night, he did kind of neglect the wine side of things. These things are not deal-breakers, but they do take away from one's enjoyment somewhat. Nevertheless I would be happy to recommend moRi, especially for a date with someone special!

Amuse of ratatouille bavarois, tomato mousse (my pick of the three), and the lollipop on the right is a roll of pork rillete.

"Kabu", which is a type of root and yogurt. This was a little bit on the heavy side, but good nonetheless.

Pork consommé with the house white ham. This was very tasty - definitely a step above what I eat out of the packet when I need to warm myself up in these winter months.

Foie gras wrapped in crepe. Just a personal preference, but I would have liked it a bit crispier, but it was totally nice as it was.

This was an interesting one - fish liver. With its fishier taste, somewhat of a contrast with the foie gras.

This is a lobster croquette with a crustacean soup. Certainly a classier croquette than I'm used to eating!

This is a rare wagyu with potato and truffle, with bordelaise sauce.

Dessert was a chocolate mousse.

http://www.mori-ebisu.jp/

Tel: 03-5942-6299

China Blue, Shiodome

2011-12-13T11:53:00.002+09:00

Three of the golden rules that have stood me in good stead over the years are:

a) don't expect great food if the view is great

b) don't eat at hotels unless you have to because you're staying there

c) don't pay for expensive Chinese food

When I booked at China Blue I knew I was breaking all three rules, but I thought that the Michelin star that has been bestowed upon it was a guarantee of experiencing something out of the ordinary. I'm afraid the only extraordinary experience was an extraordinary rip-off. Sure, the setting at the top of the Conrad hotel in Shidome is spectacular, but there is little pizazz in the "over-seasoned" food and the service is decidedly lacklustre. Things like mumbling out what each dish is and leaving before we had properly understood, failing to show the way to the bathroom until I had to track someone down, and having to ask for my jacket at the end of the evening. Or to top it off, the chef coming out to speak loudly to a group of Chinese visitors and completely ignoring us as we left. I could understand it at the local chukka joint, but when you pay around 45,000 yen for dinner including one very standard bottle of Cloudy Bay you kind of expect a minimal level of regard.

For 15,800 yen each my dining partner and I opted for the unremarkable Menu Fuki, all of which are pictured below. The most interesting part about the food was the fake prawn konnyaku vegetarian dish at the end but, hey, for that money I think they could afford real prawns.

Every dish served tasted OK and was of reasonable quality, but fine dining this is not. I have no idea what the Michelin guide is thinking, but I can easily get better food and eat like a king at some local Chinese places for a TINY fraction of the price.

Amuse of radish cake

Steamed dumplings

Deep fried steak with lettuce and tomato

Shark fin soup

Fish with coconut sauce

Stir fried vegies and konyakku "prawns"

Fruit dessert with a bit of fairy floss

The last course was not on the menu, but necessary nonetheless...

http://chinablue.jp/

Tel: 03-6388-8745

W Omotesando The Cellar Grill, Omotesando

2011-12-04T19:52:00.001+09:00

The Cellar Grill is a relatively new restaurant that opened earlier this year in a basement just off Aoyama Dori in Kita Aoyama. Despite the upmarket location and nice cellar/ wine-bar style fit out, the prices are extremely reasonable. This type of place has all the ingredients for success among today's more sober, value-conscious Tokyo diner, and the full house on both evenings I have been there recently is a testament to this.

The wines on their extensive international list are marked at retail prices and can, I believe, be bought and taken home as well. The food is mostly prepared at the counter, and is of very good quality.

My only gripe is that on the last visit, they charged for a bottle of wine that we never drank, and it wasn't until the next day that I'd realised they did this. An honest mistake? Let's hope so, but it's certainly taken the shine off what, so far, have been two very enjoyable evenings.

The oysters (from Hokkaido) were not as enjoyable as expected, lacking somewhat in taste (but they looked great).

Sometimes you just have to have some fries!

Chunky grilled bacon (this is my favourite thing on the menu)

Grilled chicken

Octopus carpacio

Grilled pork

Creamy cheese risotto - in no way necessary, but an excellent final indulgence!

http://www.cardenas.co.jp/w_omotesando/
Tel: 03-3400-3552

Jasmine, Hiroo

2011-12-04T19:10:00.001+09:00

I noticed a while back that Cardenas Chinois at Hiroo was no longer with us. It started off god knows how long ago as a trendy fusion restaurant, but had to kind of hang on during the recession by offering a pretty substantial 5,000 yen tasting menu which was actually pretty good value. However when a restaurant starts offering a 5,000 yen tasting menu which looks like it's too good to be true, you know the end is nigh. R.I.P. Furutoshi...

However in recent months it seems to have been jettisoned from the Cardenas group and been reborn with very little interior renovation as "Jasmine" (well actually the door has moved which caused me no end of confusion). The menu seems more hard-core Chinese with an emphasis on rich flavours and sauces. I don't know how authentic it is, but it's certainly a style that I've come to enjoy in Tokyo; so being not Chinese as all, there's need to be too snobby about it.

The service from the all-male ikemen staff is actually kind of a bit weird, with the communication skills somewhat lacking. This is not a language issue as my Japanese dining partner did most of the ordering - more a kind of inattentiveness mixed with nervousness which made us feel somewhat not at ease.

But in the final analysis the food trumped any issues we may have had with the service. I'd be more than happy to go back and would recommend it when you're looking for something casual but substantial.

Tofu and corriander salad - an excellent and refreshing combination.

Juicy gyoza - the dipping sauce was divine!

Scallop stir-fry - simple but delicious

Fried fish - I felt the sauce somewhat overpowered it but enjoyed it nonetheless.

I'd seen their stewed pork belly (buta kakuni) on their website and HAD to try it. It was as good as it looks, however the mashed potato accompanying it was lumpy and not good at all. What a pity...

http://www.jasmine-hiroo.com/
Tel: 03-5421-8525

Pizza Strada, Azabu Juban

2011-12-04T18:47:00.001+09:00

It's funny sometimes how two people can eat exactly the same meal and have a totally different reaction. Such was my experience when I finally ventured down to Pizza Strada at Azabu Juban to try out Tokyo's latest "authentic" Napolitan pizza joint.

It's a fairly small restaurant with a big counter plus a few tables with tiny, uncomfortable stools. The centrepiece of the restaurant is the iron wood-fired oven, which looks like it would have cost a bomb to get in there!

The ikemen staff are not particularly obliging, and have this kind of attitude I've found in other Italian restaurants in Tokyo that are trying oh so hard to be authentic - kind of macho and rude basically sums it up. Nevertheless, our needs were basically attended to so...

The menu is quite small, with hot and cold appetisers and about 5 or so pizzas to choose from. My dining partner and I opted for the cold marinated swordfish as well as the meatballs for the appetiser. For the pizza we shared the "Tamaki" which is billed as the chef's special, and made with smoked mozzarella and cherry tomatoes.

I found it all to be tastier than average, but my Japanese dining partner seemed almost scandalised at the quality and volume of the food for the price which, including a beer and a wine, came to 4,000 yen. The flavours are not exactly delicate and there's probably a bit too much bouillon in the tomato sauce but I thought it was ok.

I'll guess I'll be back, but perhaps with a different dining partner!

http://www.pizzastrada.jp/
Tel: 03-6435-1944

Biodinamico, Shibuya ビオディナミコ渋谷

2011-11-27T18:36:00.001+09:00

I have the dearly departed Jon (from Japan, not the planet thank goodness) to thank for putting me onto Biodinamico. However, it's taken me the best part of a year to make it down there but I could kick myself for waiting so long.

This is one of the best dining experiences I've had in Tokyo for a while. The chef and his team are clearly dead-serious about their food, but in no way up-tight about it. There is nothing pretentious about the food - just tasty, creative cuisine with an emphasis on organic/ biodynamic ingredients.

Dinner with paired wines (I had more than my dining partner) came to just over 30,000 yen. Not cheap but certainly an experience to remember.

Foie gras amuse

Assorted entree

Duck and a special, pressed risotto

Homemade pasta with prawn - very strong prawn taste

Homemade pasta with cheese - delicious

A selection of beautiful vegetables - served just with salt

The main event - I forced myself to eat the tongue - and it was good!

Dessert of carrot soup

Cute!

Petit fours

http://www.bio-dinamico.com/index.html
Tel: 03-3462-6277

Ukaitei, Hachioji

2011-09-15T11:02:00.001+09:00

Ukaitei at Hachioji was, in a good way, much weirder than I expected. I wasn't quite sure what to expect, but a very traditional high-class venue for ladies who drive a long way to lunch was pretty much it. Well, I think I was actually the only male in the place except for the waiters so I was right on that count.

The exterior appears traditionally Japanese. However on the inside they have a kind of 70s euro-baroque-ultra-luxury-flamboyant thing happening, except there's also lots of Japanese fixtures and the wood fittings are over 200 years old! Despite the accidental extreme retro theme that reminds me of some wood-panelled-brassy-green-shag-carpet houses I visited as a child, the effect is actually quite pleasant. I found it totally fun to be amongst it.

Every group of diners has their own little room with a teppan and your personal chef. For dessert you are led upstairs to the sitting room which overlooks a wooded hill, with some crazy mosaics on the teppanyaki bar to your back.

It's worth it to take the trip just to see the interior design, let alone the food. The food is about as retro and expensive as the building. Extremely high quality but somewhat on the safe side, and their clientelle don't really look like the types to experiment. If you have a visitor from overseas or you're too bored to stay in downtown Tokyo one weekend, I'd definitely recommend you make it over there. They are a chain too, but I've yet to see if their other properties are quite so bizarre.

It's not awabi (abalone) but one of its cousin species..

Avocado and tuna tartare - always a crowd pleaser...

Eggplant with truffle sauce! Weird, but tasty...Somewhat stupidly I forgot to take a pic of the steak from the teppan...it looked like meat cut into cubes as I guess you could imagine.

A coffee trifle type thingy - was rather nice.

Petit fours - yum!

http://www.ukai.co.jp/english/hachioji/
Tel: 042(626)1166

Moelleuse, Minami Azabu モワルーズ南麻布

2011-09-07T09:50:00.004+09:00

Living fairly close-by I have, for some time, been intrigued by this little French restaurant I pass almost everyday. Suffering from a little "French fatigue" in the past year, I kind of avoided it. However recently, when in a bind to find somewhere convenient but a little bit special for dinner, I chose it almost by default.

What an excellent default it was. This tiny restaurant comprising just a few tables and a bar reminded me again of why I like dining out in Tokyo so much. I maintain that you can taste the passion of a chef in his food and this was certainly the case at Moelleuse.

My dining partner and I opted for the 10,000 yen tasting menu, but there are other less expensive options. I think it should be possible to eat pretty well there for about 5,000 yen a head. Our waiter was unfailingly friendly and attentive, and the wines paired with the course were perfect. All in all, dinner for two with paired wine came to a round 30,000 yen. When considering the quality of the food and wine, this is a steal. Try getting that type of quality in Sydney, where you can easily be charged $40 for just a mingy glass of red!

Amuse of chicken prepared "sous vide". Great taste and unique texture due to the cooking style.

Delicious home made bread and seaweed butter. Definitely adds a very unique "umami" flavour.

"Madai" carpaccio (a type of bream) with walnut oil.

Asari soup was delicious and not too salty, which is a frequent sin when making this dish.

Foie gras with sweet potato. I've never had foie gras with potato before, and this worked really well.

Pumpkin soup. My dining partner adored this!

This fish is called "kasago" and came with a delicious eggplant puree. The cheek meat was sweet and yummy.

Duck with togarashi (Japanese chill). Usually I like duck because of it's crispy yummy skin and strong flavours and sauces. This duck was relatively simple, but really just the best duck flesh I can remember eating.

The second meat dish was a luscious beef cheek.

A medley of stewed plum, passionfruit sorbet and cheesecake for dessert.

http://moelleuse.com/

Tel: 03-3454-6010

Editions Koji Shimomura, Roppongi

2011-09-01T21:37:00.012+09:00

Recently, with a view to impressing an important visitor from overseas, I set myself the task of finding the quintessential modern Tokyo restaurant. This would be a place with stunning interior design, superlative service and a menu painting from a varied ethnic palate, but assembled with exquisite Japanese sensibility.

I took a punt on the well-reputed Editions Koji Shimomura in Roppongi, and my hopes were met beautifully. The setting and service are impeccable and carry with them a sense of occasion. Upon arrival we were presented with some magic expanding oshibori. In dry form they come as tablets which the waiter placed in a shot glass with some water. They extended to full length almost instantly, giving a theatrical opening to the meal.

My dining partner and I opted for the "Menu Edition", the top of the range omakase course, which is priced at 21,000 yen. This is expensive, to be sure, but the wines are very reasonably priced so it seemed to balance out and overall the meal was not staggeringly expensive.

Our evening started with an amuse of a baby beef burger. This was followed by liver mousse in a tall shot glass with a red jelly. Next was a delicious foie gras.

The most interesting dish of the evening (which I have lifted from their website) was John Dory and lobster, wrapped in noodles and deep fried

with Indian spices. The combination of tastes and textures was unexpected and evocative.

The meat of the evening was a very rare and very edible roast duck. We chased this up with a delicious selection of cheeses of the cow and goat variety.

There were two dessert courses, and each would have sufficed as a dessert on its own (and this is not a complaint!). The first was a lychee, coconut and pineapple mousse. The finale was a chocolate ice cream served not with cream or ice cream, but with olive oil.

Editions Koji Shimomura offers an exemplary modern Tokyo dining experience, and I would not hesitate to recommend it to you whether your goal be love or money.

http://www.koji-shimomura.jp/

Tel: 03-5549-4562

La Brianza, Azabu Juban ラ・ブリアンツァ麻布十番

2011-07-25T20:25:00.008+09:00

Once in a while you'll visit somewhere that you just know is working really hard to provide the maximum for their diners, and to keep this within a reasonable budget. Such a place is La Brianza in Azabu Juban. It's a fairly unassuming little place, but its popularity indicates it has certainly struck a chord with value-conscious Tokyoites.

For around 5,000 yen a head you can indulge in no less than eight separate, and surprisingly luxurious dishes. Cramming in eight courses into the budget does involve some compromises in refinement, but for this money who's complaining?

Well worth a visit for a fun, informal evening with friends or loved ones.

Yummy tempura of something. Wish I could remember what...

One of the tastier Bagna cauda I've had recently. When did this trend start I wonder?

Foie gras and ICE CREAM!!! Yipee, looks like it would be just up my tastebud alley. Does it work? Hmmm

Kanpachi carpaccio

Artichoke pudding

Baked egg with truffle. This was a really yummy one...

Shirokane pork from Iwate-ken

White pudding for dessert

http://www.la-brianza.com/

Tel: 03-5440-8885

Yamada Chikara, Nishi Azabu 山田チカラ南麻布

2011-07-25T17:46:00.012+09:00

I was first made aware of the power of Yamada from inveterate fellow sybarite and Tokyo blogger, Terry. For some reason, repeatedly I failed to make the journey to this well reputed establishment run by Chef Yamada, an alumnus of the late, great molecular gastronomy laboratory El Bulli. It was only when I realised it's all of five minutes walk from my house, and that the interesting shopfront that I took a picture of a few months ago was not only a restaurant, but THE Yamada Chikara, did I take the plunge.

Yamada Chikara has the atmosphere of being a place that people "in the know" go to. Tiny, discrete and totally chilled, it is the epitome of the modern Japanese dining experience. The wine list features some beautiful wines (and sakes!) and my dining partner, being much more skilled than I in the art and pleasure of wine ordered some excellent pairings.

The food was first class. Creative, fresh, and beautifully presented. I found nothing particularly surprising about it, but this is not to detract from the obvious love and thought inherent in its preparation. I think that the chef has, probably quite wisely, decided that molecular gastronomy is best in small doses. After some stomach-churning experiences in the world of molecular, I tend to agree.

I would recommend Yamada Chikara for a time in business or in romance when you must not fail to impress. Success is guaranteed.

http://www.yamadachikara.com/info.html

Tel: 03-5942-5817

Takehashi, Roppongi たけはし六本木

2011-06-29T11:39:00.005+09:00

If chicken is your thing then I have the place for you! This izakaya in Roppongi serves no meat but organic chicken including, of course, lots of yakitori but also karaage and vegetable dishes. The menu is quite limited and, be warned, some dishes feature very lightly cooked chicken (but I have lived to tell the tale).

I have been twice and, to be honest, the first visit was better. The second visit was marred by truly inattentive service and a complete failure to clear plates or issue new ones.

Still, it's probably worth a visit for their yummy chicken wing karaage - the source of my forgiveness.

Karaage is so yummy!

Melted cheese on veges with tomato sauce

Tsukune and chicken skins (yuk)

This stick was almost raw.

Their egg is quite tasty.

http://www.takehashi.info/

Tel: 03-5772-4040

New York Grill, Nishi Shinjuku

2011-06-18T17:28:00.010+09:00

Over the years I've been the New York Grill at the Park Hyatt Shinjuku a few times. The latest visit was for a Sunday lunch, but I have also been for dinner twice. This restaurant is a Tokyo institution and was made even more famous by being a key setting for the movie, "Lost in Translation".

The views from the dining room and bar are simply spectacular and are worth a visit for that reason alone.

The food is of a good standard, the wine list is OK and the service is reasonably good. Does that sound like damning with faint praise? Well, to be honest I've never walked away thinking that the food was particularly memorable, but I have always thought "gee, that was E-X-P-E-N-S-I-V-E".

I know there is a place in this world for destination restaurants with great views, but for my money I think once is enough - just so you'll be able to say you've been.

The mains are simple bistro style fare...

http://www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/entertainment/restaurants/index.jsp#4048

Tel: 03-5322 1234

Les Rendezvous de Tokyo, Nishi Azabu

2011-05-22T10:59:00.008+09:00

Manned by a beautiful, bubbly hostess and a talented galley-slave chef, dining at Les Rendezvous is a completely engaging experience. If you should be fortunate enough to pay a visit you need do little more than sit back and enjoy the show (well, you will also have to eat).

On a recent evening visit, my dining partner and I were treated to a delicious meal as well as a selection of paired, generously poured Australian wines. French food and Australian wine? Yes a little bit unique but, patriotically speaking, I have no objections.

For a little over 7,000 yen you can sample the degustation menu. The chef's selection is changed each month, but if you like you can switch out the courses with anything else on the menu - which my dining partner and I did. The cooking is uniformly good and as good as the service.

I would definitely recommend you try them out soon!

Amuse of kibina and daikon seeds. So fresh and delicious.

Herbed olive oil

Terrine of white cheese and capsicum suits the warmer weather well.

Foie gras with asparagus - was not too heavy at all.

This minimalist bouillabaisse had maximalist flavours.

Lamb with bok choy added a bit of an Asian touch.

Cheese platter was generous and delicious.

Excellent fondant chocolat with pistachio ice-cream

My dining partner's nougat was as good as it looks.

http://www.lesrendezvous-tokyo.com/

Tel: 03-5410-8110

Umenohana, Gaienmae　梅の花外苑前

2011-05-22T09:48:00.014+09:00

I was first put on to Umenohana (meaning plum blossom) by my excellent Japanese teacher, Ms Genta of the Kitani Method School. Let me digress by saying that these are the best Japanese teachers in town, and have helped me tremendously in the past few years properly come to grips with that devilishly frustrating language!

They are also clearly very good at recommending food. Umenohana is part of a chain, but this does not equate to mediocrity for them. I had an extremely enjoyable lunch there some months ago, and recently tried them out again for a Sunday lunch. The food was absolutely amazing. And, as someone who never thought I could register such a high sensory hedonic score from tofu cuisine, I must say I was surprised.

My tastes are probably becoming more sensitive after having lived in Japan for so long, but this meal was superb. The service is also very good, but I would criticise our server on the latest visit for being a little bit spaced out and inattentive at times.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Umenohana for business or pleasure, and I think you could just as easily take a foreigner as a Japanese. If you can't read the menu, just pick one of the sets at random. The set my dining partner and I ate was 3,600 yen and only 1,105 calories (gotta love low fat Japanese food). That sounds like an expensive lunch set but compared to the variety, volume and quality of the meal it's an absolute steal.

Tofu with yummy, sweet green stuff!

Chawanmushi was delicious.

Crab and tofu dumpling. Wow!

Moriawase of absolutely delectable bits and pieces. I can't even describe how great this was!

Yudedofu (boiled tofu with yuba). This is yummy with a little bit of soy sauce and ginger.

Dessert (which could hardly be fitted in) of a-bitter-root-whose-name-escapes-me ice-cream and sakura mochi. Both are kind of challenging tastes if you're used to western desserts but, certainly good for something different.

http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g083321/

Tel: 03-5412-0855

Magure, Takanawa まぐれ白金

2011-05-21T10:35:00.006+09:00

I've never really looked that seriously at Shirokane Takanawa as a dining area but, after having recently stayed there for a month, I can report that there are actually quite a few interesting little places around the 'hood.

Magure is a small okonomiyaki joint opposite the Esso at the end of Kitazato Dori. Be careful not to miss it as it is so discrete that it really looks like it's part of the Salvatore Cuomo restaurant which it is next to.

I'd recommend this place for atmosphere and experience. Their okonomiyaki is unique in that the pork gets sort of "tempura-d" before they add it, and also that they have a unique (well to ignorant me anyway) range of seasonings. I went at lunch but the atmosphere seems like it would be really good in the evening.

I found the okonimyaki a bit undercooked to be honest so I am not giving top ratings to the food, but go along anyway. I'm sure you'll have a good experience.

http://www.magure.jp/

Tel: 03-5449-3939

Salt by Luke Mangan, Marunouchi ソルトバイルークマンガンシンマルビル

2011-05-21T10:02:00.009+09:00

We all know that too much salt is bad for you, but it seems that message may not have gotten through to me yet. Salt is probably the fine-dining restaurant in Tokyo that I've eaten out the most at. So it's kind of ironic that I've never properly reviewed it. And it's also kind of ironic that Google's otherwise great service Blogger.com deleted the last posting I made about it for no apparent reason. Hmmm.

Salt is billed as a modern Australian restaurant and is sponsored by Australian celebrity chef Luke Mangan, whose food I am a confirmed fan of. In my humble opinion modern Australian cuisine, a style pioneered by a number of chefs in Sydney about 25 years ago, is not really that different from any other "modern" cuisine out there these days. I am not saying that it's a pretentious assignation, merely that the idea of there being a unique Australian cuisine really is not a very solid one.

Nevertheless, Salt clearly is inspired by what's being done by contemporary chefs in Australia - and that makes for some interesting cooking. Certainly, you can see that the style at Salt is different to the Franco-Italian fine (western) dining norm for Tokyo. And, as you wouldn't normally experience, all the wines are from Australia. So if you don't usually drink Australian wine you should be in for some very pleasant surprises as their cellar is very well chosen.

Although some meals are better than others, I've never failed to enjoy eating there and the service is usually pretty good. On a recent visit for lunch, my dining partner and I sampled the lunch menu and I shall post photos shortly...

I think it's about time I updated my entry on Salt at Marunouchi. This well-established "modern-Australian" restaurant is to be found in the classically stylish Shin Marunouchi Building opposite the Marunouchi exit of Tokyo station.

I have been to Salt more times than I care to remember and have always enjoyed it both for business and for pleasure. I find it better value at lunch than dinner, but this is more a judgement about the quality and volume of the lunch than the price of the dinner; which is not unreasonable for a restaurant of this style.

All the wines come from Australia, so if you don't usually partake of Australian wines when you dine out, you may be in for some interesting surprises. The salted quail egg has always been the amuse bouche of the house, and I seem never to be able to go past their liquorice lime sorbet for dessert. I've often found the beef to be particularly good but really I think you'd find it hard to go wrong with anything you order there.

Here are some happy snaps from a recent lunch. The food here is from the 3,500 yen menu. I augmented it with a glass of Semillion with my entree and a Pinot Noir with the main.

Scallops. I didn't have them this time but I've had them before and they were delicious.

Foie gras parfait was served with semi-dried raspberry, chopped strawberries and boudin noir. It was as good as it sounds.

My dining partner's snapper.

My beef with potato puree.

The famous liquorice and lime parfait.

My dining partner's Oreo pie. Not very Australian, but well we never really believed there was any such thing did we...

http://www.pjgroup.jp/salt/index.html

Tel: 03-5288-7828

Oto Oto, Ebisu 音音恵比寿

2011-05-12T16:26:00.001+09:00

Oto Oto is a chain izakaya whose Ebisu branch can be found in the small shopping centre attached to Ebisu Garden Place. The fact that it is a member of a chain (there are five of its type, as well as one in Paris!) should not put you off. The service and food are well above average.

Here is some eye-candy from a recent visit for dinner. The foods were accompanied with a variety of sakes, skilfully selected by my Japanese dining partner. I would highly recommend that you try it out with a large party, or for a more intimate affair. They have various seating options including a private room to allow for all types of occasion.

Amuse of fresh tomato with sweet jelly

I didn't want tomato so they brought me a vegetable version instead. Yum!

Prawn spring rolls. Slightly earthy and good.

Scallop was a bit overdone.

Delicious Caesar salad. The Japanese really know their way around one of these...

This bream sashimi was delicious.

The rice bowl with octopus was excellent.

http://www.ramla.net/luxury_restaurant/otooto/restaurant/detail.cgi?store=00212

Tel: 03-5791-7666

La Gargote, Azabu Juban ラ・ガルゴット麻布十番

2011-03-05T12:11:00.008+09:00

I have to admit I'm not quite sure what a gargote is - maybe it's like a "hole in the wall" or some such thing. It doesn't really matter though as it sounds really French, and that's exactly what La Gargote is - a really French bistro/ izakaya type thingy in Azabu Juban. The guys manning the kitchen and tables seem to be all French and a good proportion of the patrons seem to be of the Gallic persuasion as well.

The service is really warm and friendly and I was happy with the mix of French and American wines that were recommended to us. The food, which is billed as "French Kushiyaki", is very enjoyable. For business or for friends, this is a great place to visit for a casual, yet memorable meal.

Fries and camembert. No fighting please!

Chevre chaud

Raclette (à La Gargote)

Carrot soup. This was heavy and delicious - exactly what was required on a cold winter's evening.

Steak tartare about to be "composed".

It was delicious!!! I know their skewers are the speciality of the house but I thought the tartare was the best thing I ate that night.

The tartare came with a potato gratin.

Beef skewers were tender and delicious. The duck and orange skewers (not pictured) were just a bit on the dry side I thought...

Scallop. Yum!

Profiteroles. I think it was my rusty French but when ordering, I wanted to make sure that there were at least three profiteroles in a single serving so we could share the dessert. I wasn't requesting three separate servings which was what arrived. Actually I was happy with that and, unlike my more restrained dining partners, I ate all mine!!!

http://www.la-gargote.com/en/index.html

Tel: 03-6277-6725

Bitto, Shirokane イタリア料理ＢＩＴＴＯ白金

2011-02-27T09:35:00.009+09:00

One of the more pleasing things about life (and writing this blog) is that just every now and then, one is pleasantly surprised. On a recent weekday dinner I had such an experience at Bitto in Shirokane. That evening I was tired, and not in the best of moods as the restaurant I had planned on going to without a reservation was shut. I know...failing to plan is planning to fail and all that!

For many a year I have known of the existence of Bitto in the lower reaches of Kitazato Dori in Shirokane but never felt an urgent need to go there. The modern izakaya next door, Konomu has always seemed a more attractive option.

I can report that the people in this family run establishment are pleasant and the food is really surprisingly good. All the dishes seem to have quite a high price attached to them, but the servings are so large that two big eaters can easily share them without a fight.

On the night my dining partner and I visited, there were quite a few things not on the menu. I also didn't dare to enquire whether the "arai guma" (the "washing bear" or as we know it, the racoon) was available. There's a strong note of authenticity and dedication in the cooking, so who could ask for more on a cold February evening?

Take my word for it, it's racoon simmered in red wine sauce. Kawaisoooo!

Amuses

Seafood was really fresh and delicious

This course was the pièce de la résistance. Assorted deep fried mushrooms with deer ragu and a chewy, thick pasta we got to choose. No idea what the pasta was called - I have so much more to learn about Italian food.

Tiramisu - as good as it looks!

My dining partner's "baba". Again, as good as it looks!

http://rp.gnavi.co.jp/5791672/

Tel: 03-3441-8113

Le Gaulois, Jingumae ルゴロワ神宮前

2011-02-25T17:39:00.001+09:00

Le Gaulois is a modern French bistro situated in Gaien Nishi Dori on the way to Sendagaya, opposite the Jag dealer. The location is a little out of the way but you can have lunch and then sit in some nice new cars! One interesting feature of this fairly small restaurant is the very large table that looks like it could seat around 20 (making it great for a party).

I recently had lunch there with a colleague and was very impressed with the food and service. The basic lunch set costs 2,900 yen and includes a generous entree, main, dessert and coffee. I deem them also inducted into the "Order of the Bringers of More Bread Without Having To Ask For It" (which is one of my key marks of a restaurant that cares about its guests). For my entree I had a mixed plate of salad leaves, fresh herbs and marinated mushroom served with tempura of oyster and asparagus, topped with a thin fried noodle pancake and dotted with balsamic vinegar and mustard. This was a divine combination and much more elaborate than I had expected. I love a surprise like that! For my main I had salmon and vegetable served in an earthy prawn sauce, which was also very good. Dessert was a blanc manger served with fresh strawberries and coulis. It was just about the tastiest blanc manger I've had for a long time.

I will be back to Le Gaulois for sure, and would also love to try them for dinner at which time I will add to this review.

Well, after almost three years I can add to this review! Here are some pics from a recent dinner at Le Gaulois.

All the food on my recent visit for dinner to Le Gaulois was competent and tasty. I think lunch is probably better value though...

Hot terrine with foie-gras. This was very tasty.

Salad with tempura of langoustine and white fish.

Crab soup
Fish with green sauce (sorry! - I wasn't sure what it was)

My dining partner's venison

My beef

http://www.legaulois.jp/
Tel: 03-3404-0820

Bistro Tunnel, Roppongi ビストロトンネル六本木

2011-02-15T18:42:00.005+09:00

It was on a bitterly cold and snowy Valentine's Day evening that I had my first experience at Bistro Tunnel. I was looking for somewhere that would be warm and hearty, but that also would not break the bank. Tunnel came highly recommended from a French friend who has been lunching there for some time. As it turned out, my dining partner and I were the only ones in the restaurant that evening, so our laughter and merriment was rather more unrestrained than usual!

The food and wine is reasonably priced, the service is really pleasant and the cooking leaves nothing to be desired. Highly recommended by yours truly.

Charcuterie plate. The terrine had pig's ear in it! Pig's ear isn't really my cup of tea but ate it all anyway...

Jamon Serrano

Caesar salad

Prawn and ratatouille. This was delicious. I ate the shell too!

Cassoulet - yum! That's a pretty big sausage they've got there...

Soft serve ice cream with coffee granita.

http://www.bistro-tunnel.com/

Tel: 03-6662-5432

Tsushimi, Komaba Tsushimi 駒場

2011-02-13T22:44:00.008+09:00

Tsushimi can be found in place of the old Miravile in Komaba. The restaurant has been completely refitted in a more contemporary style, but the chef remains the same. The food and service also remain absolutely superb.

I hope you enjoy this photo essay from a recent (and very enjoyable) dinner. All the courses are the chef's "omakase" and all of them were delicious. I should take a notebook next time so I can remember exactly what they were. Gomen, dear readers!

http://www.tsushimi.com/

Tel: 03-6407-8024

L'Assiette Blanche, Shirokane ラシェット・ブランシュ白金

2011-02-13T10:43:00.003+09:00

L'assiette Blanche is a little French restaurant in the less glamorous backstreets of Shirokane just up from Meiji Dori. The food and service are just great. I've been there for dinner and lunch and both were superb. I even prefer it a little for lunch as it was better value but the food was still great.

Here are some pics from a recent visit for dinner:

Amuse of cheese and ham on toast. I've made this before many an evening ;-)

Shirako. The horror, the horror. I was very clear about my desire not to eat baked fish semen and sperm cocktail, but my dining partners didn't refuse strongly enough and were served this delicacy against their wishes...

Creamy risotto with prawn and asparagus.

Fish (cannot remember which type) with yummy, crispy skin. As a kid I never imagined I would enjoy eating fish skins but well...

Duck with foie gras. Tasted as good as it looks.

Creme brûlée

Blanc manger

Nougat with espresso. This was my dish and was yummy! I did not offer to share it...

http://gourmet.yahoo.co.jp/0000656229/P051116/
Tel: 03-5420-6720

Quay, Sydney 　Quay シドニー

2011-01-30T19:33:00.012+09:00

Here is some food porn from a recent dinner at Quay, Sydney. The food was mostly very good. The meat was much better than the fish (sorry, I've been spoiled living in Japan). Just mind that you don't ask your waiter to pair wines for you. One (glass) of red set me back $45. It was nice enough but $45 for a glass of Australian wine in Australia?My share of the bill for the menu shown here, with a few glasses of fairly average wine was around $275. (ouch)

Quay is located in Sydney's international cruise ship passenger terminal at Circular Quay.

A beautifully presented caviar "amuse"

Salad of French breakfast radishes, pickled beetroot, goat's curd, blood sorrel, violets, olive, pine resin, balsamico. The presentation of this dish is amazing. My dining partner went wild for it!

Kingfish sashimi, pickled kohirabi, octopus, nasturtiums with white dashi jelly. I fully rate the conception and presentation of this dish, but taste and consistency of the fish didn't quite impress.

Braise of pearl oyster, shaved southern squid, lettuce hearts, golden tapioca, lobster velvet (wonder what that is?), oyster cream, pea flowers. Again the conception and presentation is amazing, but the taste didn't set me alive. Couldn't help thinking a Japanese chef should have done this one...

Butter poached quail breast, pumpernickel, morel and foie gras (the ethical type apparently), walnuts, quinoa, truffle custard and milk skin. This tasted as good as it looks!

Confit of Suffolk lamb loin, smoked with white carrot cream, fennel infused milk curd, capers, nasturtiums, fennel pollen. Pretty good.

Berkshire pig jowl, maltose crackling, prunes, cauliflower cream, perfumed with prune kernel oil. We were repeatedly advised this is one of Peter's (the chef's) signature dishes. AND BLOODY GOOD IT WAS TOO!

The famous snow egg! This was the white nectarine version and it was nothing short of a taste revelation. Really, I would go just for this...

Preserved wild cherries, coconut cream, chocolate crumble, cherry juice and chocolate sorbet. We didn't really need another dessert, but this was very scrummy!

http://www.quay.com.au

Tel: (61 2) 9251 5600

Kadowaki, Azabu Juban かどわき、麻布十番

2011-01-25T15:39:00.006+09:00

When making the booking at Kadowaki I really was surprised that I managed to lock in a table just a night in advance. After all, this almost secret establishment has not one but two of those coveted Michelin stars! I suppose this is what gives them the right to condescendingly tell me to let them know if I change my mind. Well, there was not much chance of that and when it came to it, it turned out that I had booked two very cramped counter seats facing a rather stern looking chef brandishing one heck of a sushi knife. The "hattori hanzo" of sushi knives I fantasised!

What you get to eat for dinner here is entirely up to the discretion of the master of the house. So I recommend you mind your manners and keep in mind that he speaks English before you pass your free comments upon sitting down. I think this may be the reason that my dining partner and I, despite making an undoubtedly glamorous and cultured pair, were denied the divine looking Japanese lobster that everyone else seemed to be getting. I can't get over thinking what might have been...

But it's always best in life to focus on all the blessings you already have, so I shall run down the culinary score of the evening. We opened, perhaps somewhat shakily, with a bowl of fishy bits covered in fish eggs. This was followed by what was, in my opinion, the most interesting thing we ate that night - just a little a square of tofu with wasabi and soy. That doesn't sound amazing at first, but this tofu had like a thin skin on it which, when broken, gave up a lush ooze of pillowy softness zinged with the wasabi and soy. Actually my dining partner works in the commercial flavour business so had a much more articulate take on the flavour notes than I. But, needless to say, it was NOICE!

Next we were treated to a dish of potato and prawn with a yummy semi-clear glug. I have no idea what the glug was made of, but it was delicious. Following this was the most interesting contrast of flavours, and perhaps more aptly, temperatures I had had in a while - a crab chawan mushi (egg custard) topped with freeze dried squid ink. It sounds simple enough but the contrasts in the dish of flavour and temperature made this one of the most interesting things I've eaten for some time.

Next cab off the rank was grilled crab meat served in its shell and topped with uni. I would have preferred the uni not to have been grilled with the crab, but I nitpick...Following this, sashimi (maybe it was yellowtail) on a bed of ice with mountain potato, onion shoots and some other assorted vegetative freshnesses was served.

As if was not enough, we were served what counts in my book as the ultimate two star Asian comfort food. Boiled rice with fresh black truffle mixed through. Divine! To finish, we were handed a small but intriguing dessert of red bean, white panacotta style pudding, matcha, red bean and black sugar sauce.

All this was washed down, first with a half bottle of big brand champers (can't remember which one) and then with a 2006 Puligny Montrachet. It was the first time I have ordered the most expensive wine on a wine list anywhere, and it certainly would have out-performed Yellow Tail even in a blind taste test ;-)

So, as you can see, a good time was had by all and if you need to ask how much it cost...well you know the rest of the saying. Suffice it to say that a little indulgence is necessary every now and then and I regret nothing...except, now where'd that lobster go???

http://azabu-kadowaki.com/

Tel: 03-5772-2553

Restaurant Hiromichi Ebisu レストランヒロミチ恵比寿

2010-12-30T08:37:00.010+09:00

For one of my more special one-on-one bounenkais (end of year catch-ups) I thought it would be nice to try Hiromichi in Ebisu. The chef was formerly at Chemins, Akasaka. I know this because everyone I've read on the net quotes this fact. I guess this is supposed to mean he's pretty good, because Chemins has one of those dreadfully sought after Michelin stars.

Hiromichi-san just got his own star (omedetou!) so I went along to see what the fuss was about, and I can definitely say that the star was well earned. The prices are extremely reasonable (7,500 for the dinner set) and the quality of cooking is excellent.

Little amuse of hibiscus and olive (strange combination but not unpleasant).

The big amuse of cheese puff and terrine

The butter had a seaweed thingy on it giving it a bit of saltiness - great idea.

My oysters - cold and hot

The scallop was served with a little gobou root paste.

The foie gras was beautifully cooked. I tend to prefer it with a more acidic sauce than the cream sauce here, but no complaints.

I'm not a big fan of boudin noir, but my dining partner ordered it and I had a taste. Not bad!

Fish of the Day (can't remember what it was though...)

The venison was delicious

I didn't want the banana crepe so I got a nice gooey choccy pudding instead

Banana crepes
Petits fours and fairy floss (or cotton candy to my American friends!)

http://www.restaurant-hiromichi.com/pc/

03-5768-0722

Il Figo Ingordo, Roppongi トラットリア・イル・フィーゴ・インゴルド六本木

2010-12-11T18:58:00.009+09:00

Of course, like any other sentient being, I love Italian food. But, without sounding like a peasant, I don't really enjoy Italian food when chefs aim for refinement and technical precision. Unlike French food (where I think the refined and poncier the better) I think Italian cuisine works best when it sticks to the basics.

Il Figo Ingordo is an Italian restaurant located in Roppongi, quite close to Roppongi Hills but on the other side of Roppongi Dori. Quite simply, it serves the most satisfying Italian food I have tasted in a very long time. There is nothing particularly sophisticated about the menu and the preparation of the food, but the ingredients are absolutely top-notch and the chef knows exactly what he's doing.

I've been there for a very enjoyable lunch and, most recently, for my company's bonenkai (end of year party). Taking into account the quality of the food and its skillful preparation the prices are more than reasonable so I just might make this one of my regulars.

The bread, especially the focaccia with Rosemary is delicious!

Take your pick of delicious fresh fish, prepared acqua pazza style, grilled or fried

The steak tartare with truffle (that blur in the pic is the waiter shaving fresh truffle on) was exceptionally good

Salmon
Wild boar penne. I had this at lunch on my first visit. Very good.

Stuffed calamari (looked great but I didn't get a taste)

Shrimp taglione in squid ink. This was mine and very nice.

Fish (can't remember which, sorry).

This was the grilled pork. I didn't get a pic but my beef was AMAZING. Just the best I can remember for so long...

Dessert cart

http://figo-ingordo.jp/

Tel: 03-6447-2347

Hoi, Ebisu HOI 恵比寿

2010-11-13T16:07:00.008+09:00

I love Chinese food but I'm kind of Chuuka-phobic (Chuuka being what they call Japanese-style Chinese food in Japan). For the most part I find it kind of bland and gluggy - a world away from real Chinese food which can be some of the most exciting on earth.

So it was probably for that reason that although I had heard good things about Hoi, whenever it came to the crunch and I needed somewhere for dinner near my soon to be vacated Ebisu apartment (I will miss the neighborhood) I would cross the street to Marché aux Puces. Well I reckon Marché has got pretty same old same old so I recently forced myself to try Hoi.

I am well glad I did. This is Chuuka ryori the way it should be - bold, flavoursome and filling. I will let the pictures tell the story, but I should add it's great value for money - two full course meals and two beers for just under 9,000 yen.

Fried burdock - must be much healthier than french fries...

Assorted appetisers - jellyfish, eggplant and pork

Shark fin "Fuka Hire" soup

This fried prawn with chilli was delicious. The waiter advised me to eat the head which I did. It was yummy - I lost my prawn head virginity!!!

Delicious sweet and sour pork "Subuta". We were able to substitute the beef harami which was orginally part of the set...

Mapo dofu. This is spicy as hell - and yummy!

Some clear broth (great stock) and noodles to finish.

Anin dofu was just the way I like it - kind of you bite into it and the fluid feels like it's coming out.

http://r.gnavi.co.jp/a590500/

Tel: 03-3446-5437

Legato, Shibuya レガート　渋谷

2010-10-24T19:01:00.006+09:00

Located at the top of Dougenzaka, Legato (owned by the Global Dining group) is one of the mainstays of Tokyo ex-pat dining. I've "done" Legato at least four times during my time in Tokyo and I've never failed to have a good time there.

It's not because the food is so good, because it really isn't anything to write home about (except for the 50 day aged steak - yum!). The wines are another matter however and on a recent visit for dinner on a Saturday night with friends from overseas, our attentive maitre d'hotel, Nabil, made sure that we were fixed up with a lovely Aussie Pinot Noir.

It's a great place for a reasonably priced (well for the food at least) night out with gaijins who aren't too fussy about insisting on going somewhere from the Michelin Guide. I'd advise you to start with a nice drink and take in the view at the bar before you go to your table.

Fresh pork spring roll

Thickly sliced prosciutto (delicious) and seafood salad

The 200 gram aged steak. The trimmings of mashed potato and a few scraps of mushroom didn't rock my world, and it comes with no sauce (and none is offered). However the meat itself is basically to die for so you don't need anything really other than a bit of pepper with this one...

The salmon was not good I'm afraid - was somewhat overcooked.

The plate's not brown - it's dusted with cocoa!

http://www.legato-tokyo.jp/en/shibuya/home/welcome

Tel: 03-5784-2120

Izari, Naka Meguro 伊座利, 中目黒

2010-10-24T18:36:00.006+09:00

Has anyone noticed just how happening Naka Meguro is getting? In the six months since I've been down there I've noticed new cafes and boutiques opening up and down the river, and it's really nice to see that there is at least one area in Tokyo that is not looking gloomy and shuttered up (been to Aoyama lately???).

I came upon Izari quite by accident but I'm really glad I did. This modern Japanese restaurant does the basic Japanese comfort food favourites such as curry rice, omelette rice and hamburger; but there's a twist. The chef prepares these as if we're dining at a Michelin restaurant. The execution is exquisite and delivers a taste sensation way beyond your basic slopped-up comfort food.

This place is fantastic. I'm definitely going to be back and back and back...

The "hamburg" was juicy as can be, the demi-glace sauce superb, the cheese delicious and the spaghetti beautifully infused with a white pepper flavour. The chef actually made this bog-standard fare taste sophisticated!

http://www.izari-nakameguro.jp/

Tel: 03-5456-8210

Ristorante Frick, Minami Aoyama　フリック南青山

2010-10-16T09:49:00.005+09:00

It's taken me a couple of visits to get around to writing about Ristorante Frick in Minami Aoyama. During the first dinner I was so engrossed in the conversation with my dining partner that I forgot to take photos of most of the food. The next time I was out with my work colleagues and, again, I forgot to take all the photos I should have. I am hoping that my patchwork photo essay will be enough to cobble together an impression of the fare.

The first thing you notice about Frick is, of course, the name. Apparently it's an acronym blending the first initials of the team. They're a young team, and the chef and his dour waiter look like they're barely out of high school. I think they're blissfully unaware of the double entendre in English, and the name certainly has raised a few eyebrows. But this is Japan so, frankly, who frickin cares?

For 5,250 yen you can order the Menu Frick which includes an amuse, vegetable plate, pasta, main, dessert and coffee. It's excellent value and allows you either a reasonably priced dinner or to splash out on some delicious Italian wines or grappa which, of course, is what I did on both occasions.

I think, overall, the food is pleasant enough and reflects a high degree of thought in conception and reasonably good attention to detail in execution. Top marks for that, especially when considering the good price performance and the compromises that this demands. I think though that this young chef is capable of operating at a higher level if he has the opportunity and willingness to develop. It would be a pity if he were not to continue to grow in his art, resting on the laurels of the apparently commercially successful formula he has struck for these recessionary times.

The amuse bouches are intriguing. Here is a chicken liver puff and a spoon of (omg I forgot...)

This is a puff with pork and a little blini with raw tuna and okra

The raw vegetable plate comes with an anchovy and olive oil dip. Hmm, it's OK but it really is a bit raw for my liking...

I forgot to take pictures on both visits of the pasta, but I had sea urchin and tomato sauce which was quite nice. The lamb ragu was well received by those that had it and the mozzarella and tomato also seemed to go down nicely.

The duck "sumibiyaki" was, honestly, a little bland even with the truffle shavings.

The fish received good reviews, but not about the portion size, which I agree was tiny.

The pork received a good review on the second visit. I had pork on my first visit and it was OK.

You don't get to choose your dessert which is pretty annoying as I don't like a lot of fruits. I rejected my banana tiramisu (?!) and they kindly prepared the apple pie and ice cream which was much more to my liking.

http://www.frick2008.com/

03-6905-7311 ‎

Itamae Gokoro Kikuura, Nishi Shinjuku 板前心菊うら西新宿

2010-09-04T09:06:00.008+09:00

Kikuura is a friendly, unpretentious Japanese restaurant in Nishi Shinjuku. Their food has a lot of thought put into it and is of very good quality. The kimono clad servers are also delightful. Amazingly, the set pictured here is just 5,000 yen per head. I would highly recommend Kikuura as a place to take visiting friends for an authentic Japanese meal.

Abalone with its miso (guts) mixed with vinegar

"Moriawase" of starters

Pumpkin consomme with scallop, shrimp, corn and snow peas

Sashimi. The accompanying sliced vegetable had an amazing texture. The uni (sea urchin) was delicious - sweet and none of that funky taste that you often get

Fish was delicious

Anago (conger eel) with eggplant and daikon

Rice and miso soup. The miso had some bony fish and negi (spring onion) in it giving it a very pleasant flavour

Anin doufu (almond jelly) - a Chinese touch to finish the evening.

http://www.kikuura.com/1f/index.html

Tel: 03-5389-5581

Rainbow Roll Sushi, Azabu Juban レインボーロールスシ麻布十番

2010-09-03T11:28:00.000+09:00

Rainbow Roll is a glam sushi place where you could take the more nervous foreign eater. There are plenty of delicious fusion style rolls on the menu and it's open for lunch or dinner.

Let me show you the delicacies sampled on a recent visit for lunch on a blazing summer's day...

Eel appetizer

Cold sesame soup with gelatinised chicken pieces

Mixed sushi
Tuna rolls with jalapeno mayonnaise (noice!)

Small dessert

http://www.rainbowrollsushi.com/
Tel: 03-5572-7688

Chef's Shanghai Cuisine, Shinjuku シェフス新宿

2010-07-31T17:44:00.006+09:00

Chef's is a small, family style Chinese restaurant tucked away in a fairly non-commercial part of Shinjuki 1-chome, not far from where Gaien Nishi Dori ends. It's been around for years and on a friend's recommendation I decided to try it for dinner in a party of three.

What a great choice! Although it's an unpretentious little affair of a restaurant the food is quite innovative and, as there is a clear European influence in the cooking, I would confidently label a lot of it as "fusion". The service is friendly, but service ends early so that everyone can get a good night's sleep. I'd recommend you get there no later than 7. Chef's is not cheap, but I have no objection to paying a decent price for food that has a lot of thought and love put in it. I'd definitely recommend you give them a go for an informal dinner if you're in the area.

Our gracious serveuse serving our egg and tomato. This was really sweet!

Peppers and olive oil. Is this Chinese? Do we care?

Chinese sausage

Clams (asari) in butter and white wine sauce. One of my dining partners gave this the gold medal of the evening.

Lamb cutlets were very tender.

Excellent shu mai. The spring rolls (unfortunately not pictured) were the best I've had for a long time!

Slow cooked pork belly with black bean sauce. Sinful but delicious.

Stir fry of squid and fungus. Excellent and refreshing.

A clear ramen with lots of negi finished the savoury course. It's not pictured here but we also ordered some "goma dangoes" (sesame balls) in soup as well as some basil ice cream for dessert. Both desserts were better than good!

http://r.tabelog.com/tokyo/A1304/A130402/13000884/

Tel: 03-3352-9350

Tokyo American Club - Mixed Grille

2010-07-30T09:12:00.004+09:00

You need to be invited by a member to dine at the Tokyo American Club. This occasionally happens to me and on a recent visit I thought I'd take some pics to show you what gets served here.

I've always found the food, wine and service at TAC to be relatively unsophisticated but pretty good so if you get a chance to I would try it out.

Frozen Margarita

Mix up of quesadilla and shrimp (shrimps kind of defrosted I'm afraid...)

Mix up of Ibaraki Pork and Sea Bass

Brownie (before the yummy, chunky raspberry sauce was poured)

http://www.tokyoamericanclub.org/

Tel: 03-4588-0381

Two Rooms, Kita Aoyama TWO ROOMS グリル | バー北青山

2010-07-29T18:09:00.008+09:00

Without meaning any disrespect to the genre, there are few eateries in Tokyo that better typify ex-pat expense account dining than Two Rooms. These are places where you'll often find whole tables of foreign men in suits, lots of good wine and waiters who don't even try to address you in Japanese. It is a little like taking a trip, for a few hours, to the world of the international banker as he wheels and deals, deciding all our fates over some steak and plonk.

My most recent trip to this rarified world occurred recently when I visited Two Rooms for dinner. I had previously visited on my own for lunch but this time I was fortunate enough to have company. I'm not even going to comment on the prices. Perhaps we should leave that to whomever signs your expense report. Suffice it to say, it's not Pepper Lunch, but I think the quality of food and service is very good...so horses for courses (but not on my course please!).

Anyway our dinner comprised a salad, starter, main and dessert and was washed down with two very nice bottles of wine - a Yering Station Chardonnay from Oz and a Cristom Pinot Noir.

Artistically presented crab salad to start

I subsituted horse sashimi for a couple of oysters. The big'un is Japanese and the baby is an Aussie!

Juicy white asparagus with parmesan

Scallop with baby corn and risotto

DELICIOUS wagyu steak.

Cherry with crispy meringue and ice cream

http://www.tworooms.jp/

Tel: 03-3498-0002

L'Embellir, Minami Aoyama ランベリー南青山

2010-07-18T12:06:00.015+09:00

My evening at L'Embellir didn't start so well. The location was (I thought) well known to me and I had put some thought into planning a short cut where the taxi could drop my dining partner and I, so that I would not arrive dripping in sweat (this being summer and all). Well, although there was a sign, it was taped over and there was no indication of a restaurant ever having been in the building. One phone call (well actually two as the phone number had also changed) pointed us in the right direction. These days L'Embellir is located in a basement just behind the space-age Prada building.

We duly arrived after a ten minute walk with me playing my role of sweaty gaijin to a "t". That was all soon forgotten as we were seated in a cosy corner couch-style table and glasses of Bollinger were brought. This very nicely set the tone for the amazing, sumptuous feast that was to follow.

The conception and execution of the food at L'Embellir is extremely good and I can honestly say have not had such a special meal since my visit last year to Creations de Narisawa. Their basic menu is a surprisingly reasonable 12,600 yen. The only trick for young players, if one is on a budget, is not to let them bring you wine by the glass. I was given one which ended up costing 6,500 yen, perhaps a little bit over the top, especially seeing as I was not even shown what I was drinking. I'm pretty sure it wasn't Yellow Tail, but a decent sommelier should explain what he has selected and why. The cheese cart (which I highly recommend!) will also set you back 2,400 yen each and is not included in the menu. I was the only one drinking and adding some water and a half bottle of Puligny Montrachet we were looking at just shy of 50,000 yen for dinner. So, I need to warn you - special occasions only!

The basic "Menu Beauté" comes with two amuses, three entrees, a fish, a meat, a pre-dessert, a dessert, coffee, petit fours and lastly what I would describe as "bon-bonnerie". We were also given a little biscuit and nougat to take home. I promise you, you will not starve at this here modern French restaurant!

I would be very happy to return to L'Embellir for a special occasion, expecting a very luxurious and wonderful dinner. The only recommendation I would make to them is to loosen up the service. The numerous waiters were all rather serious, and I could not say that I felt any personal warmth from any of them. It's always best not to take oneself too seriously...

Beautifully set table

First amuse of jellified slow cooked watermelon, french cream cheese and mushroom "sandwich".

Tougarashi (Japanese pepper) pudding with corn soup and fried corn on top.

Vegetable terrine - this has 17 different types of vege!

The bread and butter were something else. The smoked butter was delectable.

Croustillant of langoustine

Beef tendon consomme with carrot mousse and fried carrot on the side.

"Madai" with rice crispies on top and puréed potato. The fried cauliflower was overcooked IMO (sorry chef!)

Pintarde and liver of caille.

Cheese plate

Blueberry and...gold!

Fruit soup with basil sorbet

Goes with very almondy almond blanc manger

Raspberry macaron and kouglof

Bonbonnerie

And a little take home pack!

http://www.lembellir.com/

Tel: 03-6427-3209

Furutoshi, Nishi Azabu　ふるとし西麻布

2010-07-16T08:11:00.007+09:00

Nishi Azabu is home to some pretty expensive establishments that are strong on image and not much else. However Furutoshi hits a home run if you're looking for somewhere with a little touch of class, that will fill your belly with tasty and contemporary fare - and that will not break the bank.

Their 5,250 yen "Dolce Vita Fizz" course menu is a winner in my opinion, comprising a small soup, assorted entree platter (terrific!), pasta, meat or fish and dessert plus coffee. Their wine list is not large but even the cheaper drops (sorry - on a budget at the moment) are very drinkable.

My dining partner and I added two bottles of wine and a grappa on top of the set course and the bill only came to 13,000 a head, which I think for Nishi Azabu and the amount and quality of the food represents excellent value.

The service is very obliging, and our waiter even spoke English. In conception the food is working hard to keep up with the trends. In execution, the food is probably not up to a Michelin standard but the genuine effort to provide something more innovative than the norm certainly is appreciated from my side.

For a date or a business dinner, I would certainly add Furutoshi to the list!

Cold corn soup

The assorted appetisers were a real treat.

And came with a helpful guide!

Excellent brioche, foccacia and cheese roll

Seafood pasta, bouillabaisse style

My dining partner's lamb cutlets

My "Tsukuba" pork
Banana chocolate gelato

Blanc manger

http://www.furutoshi.com/

Tel: 03-5775-1275

Jinroku, Shirokane 甚六白金

2010-06-13T13:23:00.009+09:00

Jinroku is a fairly large, casual teppanyaki/ okonomiyaki restaurant in Gaien Nishi Dori, Shirokane. Service is friendly and in English. The quality of their food is very good, but not especially cheap. I'd be happy to recommend it, especially if you need to take a group of foreign visitors out.

Now to the food:

Jinroku mix. The steak was delicious but I have to single out the prawns for special mention. I managed to fling one to the ground with a ill-judged chopstick movement, but my gracious dining partners let me eat another one all to myself :)

Gyozayaki - mmmmm. I never thought you could do that!

Gomoku Takoyaki

Fried Soba in Omelette

http://www.jinroku.jp/

Tel: 03-3441-1436

Toshi Yoroizuka, Roppongi Midtown

2010-05-30T18:36:00.005+09:00

Oh my GOD - the cakes here are good. This is the only cake shop in the world I wouldn't mind betting that has a red carpet and doorman. You might not be used to booking cake and coffee, but this is worth it!! I think I'm falling in love...

http://www.grand-patissier.info/ToshiYoroizuka/

Tel: 03-5413-3650

Aronia de Takazawa, Akasaka アロニアドタカザワ赤坂

2010-05-30T11:18:00.011+09:00

My dinner plans at Aronia de Takazawa came as a complete but pleasant surprise after a fellow foodie at a loose end suggested we try it together. I'd never heard of Aronia (hello, and I call myself a Tokyo food blogger!) and when I arrived I could definitely see that the place has been designed with exclusivity in mind. The discrete entrance for this rather conveniently located restaurant is to be found hiding in plain sight in an Akasaka alley just parallel to Sotobori Dori.

The restaurant sets only two tables per evening, and the chef stands doing his work on a raised platform in full view of the diners. The waitress on the evening we visited, or should I more aptly say his representative, spoke more than passable English and was very helpful throughout the evening.

I don't quite know how to describe the style of cooking, but "modern cuisine" seems the most fitting. If I had to compare a similar restaurant, albeit a more famous one, one I would say that Creations de Narisawa in Aoyama would be the most similar in goal. In terms of execution, the food at Creations is better in my opinion, but this should not take away from the assessment of the food at Aronia which is very good.

Our nine course tasting menu was 20,000 yen. This was paired with 100% Japanese wines, which provided an interesting experience. I appreciated the uniqueness of the idea of pairing with Japanese wines, but the reality is that Japanese wine simply doesn't make the grade for this level of cuisine. Every wine we tried showed a great deal of effort in its conception and realisation, however there is just something "funky" to my palate about Japanese wine.

If you consider that the wines, which my dining partner did not even to any extent fully partake of, added a full 30,000 yen to the bill, you're looking at a seriously pricey dinner that begins to unroll your socks, but doesn't really knock them off. I still give it 4 stars, but I seriously suggest some further thought be given to the experience versus the investment - especially when considering the competition at that level.

Amuses were toro sashimi with avocado mouse and little white fishies with shiso.

Very creative rendering of Ratatouille

'Sansai' Wild Mountain Vegetables

Fruit bread with pork rillette

"Hamo" with chilled tomato soup

Asparagus four ways (delicious)

Candleholder with foie gras pudding

O-toro tuna with powder dressing (liquid nitrogen powder!)

Hokkaido lamb (this was on the fatty side)

"Martini" jelly with fake olives. They're actually apricots.

Takazawa's Special Camembert

http://www.aroniadetakazawa.com/

Tel: 03-3505-5052

Ristorante Honda, Kita Aoyama リストランテ・ホンダ北青山／外苑前

2010-05-22T12:35:00.014+09:00

Recently I dipped my toes into Ristorante Honda again for lunch. My first experience earlier this year was very enjoyable, but I forgot my camera and also completely failed to remember what I ate so didn't write it up. This time I came better prepared.

Honda is situated just up from Gaienmae station, not far from the big Muji store. I think it's an elegant little place to dine for business or pleasure. It's just casual enough not to make you feel uncomfortable or under-dressed, but their food and service are quite refined. I was suitably impressed when they remembered who I was when making booking!

The lunch menu of which my dining partner and I partook was 3,675 yen and includes antipasto, primo piatto, secondo piatto, dolce and coffee. It's very good value, but if you add numerous wines, as we did, you can expect to bring the bill to quite a different level.

First course, pate (with raisin!) and a little potage with baby squid. Both more than acceptable.

Yes, this bread was as good as it looks.

Spaghetti with meat sauce and eggplant

Snapper
A fairly fatty but tasty lamb.
Cherry clafoutis
Oops! I attacked my berry panna cotta before I remembered to take a photo.

http://ristorantehonda.jp/

Tel: 03-5414-3723

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Roppongi Hills ラトリエドゥジョエル・ロブション　六本木ヒルズ

2010-05-15T07:09:00.015+09:00

Even in a place such as Tokyo which values execution so highly, you sometimes have to be careful of the colonial outposts of masters like Joel Robuchon. For example Gordon Ramsey at the Conrad, when I visited some years ago, really did not deliver anything exciting - at least not to justify the hype and certainly not to risk violating one's purse for another visit. And don't even mention Wolfgang Puck - actually I'd be surprised if he ever set foot in one of his tacky namesakes in Roppongi.

Robuchon is in a class of his own, of course, but even Homer nods and I can attest that it is, in fact, possible to be disappointed at La Table on the ground floor at Chateau Robuchon in Ebisu. However on a recent visit to Atelier at Roppongi Hills, no such feelings were to be had. I have been there three times now and the food, service and overall execution are always up to a standard I wish we could emulate in my home country. Hah - as the hero of my personal quest to Japan maybe that's my purpose in life when one day I shall return!

My dining partner and I opted for the 5,000 yen menu which featured an amuse of rillettes en croute, two entrees - one of asparagus and crab pudding and the other of shittake en croute. The main was a bavette (which is cut from the abdominal muscles of the cow). I'm not such a fan of bavette as it can be kind of iffy in texture, bloody and oozy (ok that's a bit over the top) but this was delicious and served with Robuchon's famous pommes puree (mashed potato to the rest of us). I have to tell you the pommes puree at Atelier is not a patch on what you can find in Toulouse, here: http://restaurantlacorde.com/. Maybe I was just in a good mood when I visited there, but I have never tasted mashed potato like that in my life. I will return, even though all the staff went home while we were still eating dinner. Hey, pas grave it's France after all.

Atelier is the most workmanlike of the Robuchon portfolio here in Tokyo, but unbeatable for a business or personal lunch that requires a special touch, but need not be over the top. If I worked in Roppongi Hills this would be my canteen for sure!

Here are the pics. I should add that the champagne and rioja ordered by the glass hit the spot very well. And please note that the dessert was half eaten by the time I remembered to take a pic. It was goooood.

http://www.robuchon.jp/roppongi/lateier.html

Tel: 03-5772-7500

Argent, Meguro アージエント目黒（中町）

2010-04-17T15:54:00.011+09:00

Argent, located on Meguro Dori not far from the trendy Hotel Claska, is a French restaurant that has been going for 30 years now. I'm not sure that much has changed in the last 30 years and this probably, if anything, explains how it has lasted so long in the cut-throat Tokyo dining scene.

I recently attended a special 30th anniversary dinner there and it seemed full to the rafters with lots of local female types d'un certain age who may well have been going there all that time. Good for them! The food is good, honest French and, for what it is, is quite edible. The bread is extra good, and tempted me (I am only half sorry to say) away from my carb minimisation regime - at least just for one night.

Here are the highlights of the menu from the anniversary dinner:

The first course was a country style terrine, which was a nice start (but no pic I'm afraid - must have been too hungry to remember to take a pic).

Tuna Tartar "Paris Esprit", which went beautifully with the garlic croutons.

The "Dream Salad" of grilled scallops. Did the recipe come to the chef in a dream? Scallops were cooked in something yummy I couldn't identify.
Seafood and Mushroom Gratin - beautiful aroma.
A5-rank (!) beef cheek.
Rare cheesecake (very soft)
Strawberry tart.

I'd recommend Argent for a little, informal dinner where the aim is more to relax and enjoy each other's company than to impress with the sophistication of the food. We don't really need a mini Robuchon every day, do we?

http://www.argent-meguro.com/index.html

Tel: 03-3792-4445

Teppan-ya, Hiroo　鉄板屋　広尾

2010-04-10T08:23:00.018+09:00

I think, not unreasonably, I had assumed Teppan-ya was a Teppanyaki restaurant, but it's more interesting than that - specialising in all types of grilled meats and fish. Located on Meiji Dori in Hiroo I've walked past it a number of times in the past few months thinking that the facade and midget-level door probably had something kind of interesting behind them.

One recent evening, as I was wandering around looking for something to try for dinner around Hiroo my dining partner and I decided to check it out.

The overall feeling is modern Japanese and I really liked the ceramics used for the plates and ashtrays. BUT, ashtrays!? This is 2010 isn't it? Ne! Haven't all other parts of the civilised world phased out smoking in restaurants. I understand that it's nice to have a ciggie or ten during dinner, however it's something that makes it smelly and unpleasant for everyone else (and also makes a smoker in remission like me think about what it would be like).

Despite the smoke, the food was actually rather good.

This crab was DE-licious! Kind of earthy, juicy and clean all at the same time.

This is okonomiyaki. Nice, but not their best dish.

These prawns would have been delicious just on their own but went nicely with the crunchy broccoli and mayonnaise. There were just a few smears of mayo left after about 60 seconds!
This is "chu-toro" tuna. Crispy on the outside and juicy inside. Majorly nice!!

Scallops cooked just right with soy sauce and butter.
This grilled pork (like thick cut bacon), was accompanied by a STRONG yuzu paste. Yum!
This is raw beef with a mustard sauce - hmm - I actually prefer beef cooked, but it was worth a try.

You could definitely take foreign visitors here as no one can

really object to a nice piece of grilled fish or meat. Can they?

http://www.9b0.jp/index.html

Tel: 03-5739-1488

Sabado Sabadete, Shirokane　サバドサバデテ　白金台

2010-04-10T07:45:00.007+09:00

I've been walking past Sabado Sabadete at the bottom of "Platina Dori" in Shirokane for years. Once my curiosity recently reached a threshold I had, in the last few weeks, made a couple futile attempts to make a booking. Futile, not because I think the restaurant was booked up but because nobody answers the phone. Well, given the age of the flirtatious Catalonian proprietor and his helper, it's forgivable if they're not hanging around during the day waiting for my call.

The food is good, honest Spanish tapas. Rather nice I thought was the frittata, especially once it had been spread with some of the huge dollop of aioli provided alongside the bread. Here are some pics for you to salivate over (ok, I forgot to take pics of everything, engrossed as I was in the sparkling conversation of my dining partner):

And here's one of the proprietor drinking out of this weird little beer vessel that had previously been passed around all the patrons in the restaurant. You can see it's quite hygienic as noone's lips actually touch it!

I'd recommend Sabado Sabadete for a pleasant, laid back evening jaunt back to Catalonia. The food is tasty and the service warm. I also need to warn you, the proprietor does not speak English so it's Japanese or Spanish all the way!

http://r.gnavi.co.jp/a048800/

Tel: 03-3445-9353

Miravile, Komaba ミラヴィル駒場

2010-02-25T12:08:00.012+09:00

Miravile is somewhere that has been on my list for well over a year, but it all just seemed so hard. Every time I mustered up my best pidgin Japanese to make a booking they were full. My pride seemed to prevent me from making bookings weeks in advance as that would seem way too keen. On a recent attempt I lost my nerve and just kept asking "what about next week? what about next week? what about next week?". In the end I managed to get a booking three weeks in advance for lunch on Sunday.

And boy was it worth the wait. Miravile really earns its Michelin accolade from start to finish. The ambience is lovely (I believe the chef even did some of the paintings, lending a real personal touch), and the service is extremely attentive - I think keeping the dining room small helps a lot. It was basically love at first sight when my customary Sunday lunch aperitif "coupe de champagne" (a delightful Drappier Carte Blanche to be exact) was refilled!! A refill of champers! Be still my beating heart!!

The food is uniformly superb. We started off with a mousse of tongue, foie gras and trufle topped with a little pastry log. You can tell I'm not a real gourmet because I still get grossed out by things like tongue and brain and especially shirako - but I braved it and was glad I did!

Next came some fat, baked oysters which were as delicious as I've come to expect Japanese oysters to be. Frankly I don't know what all the fuss about Sydney rock oysters is about - give me some scrummy, engorged with yumminess Japanese ones - don't care where they're from- any time!!

The fish that followed was a "kobudai". To be honest, especially if there's sauce on it, I can't really tell one "tai" (bream) from another but this hit the spot really well. My main event was an excellent duck with boudin noir.

Dessert was great too as you can see from the pics! (In the interests of full disclosure, it has been six weeks since I went so I kind of forgot exactly what it was!!).

But don't trust my faulty memory - get your toosh along to Miravile sometime. Expect there to be a bit of a wait to get a table, but I promise you something a definite cut above the rest.

http://www.miravile.net/

Tel: 03-5738-0418

La Cantine du Midi, Shirokane 白金

2010-02-14T15:42:00.009+09:00

La Cantine du Midi is a little neighbourhood southern French style cafe in Shirokane at the Azabu end of Kitazato Street. It's run by a couple of clean-cut ikemen who have put a lot of effort into making the experience authentic. On a recent visit for lunch I was offered the "course menu" on the phone while booking. There was no information offered on the price or contents of the course, but I'm usually happy to be surprised. In this case it turned out to be an entree, main, dessert and coffee for 2,500 yen (I found out when paying -- ok I know I could have asked...). My partner was not drinking but I indulged in a couple of fairly average glasses of house white which brought the bill for two for a little over 7,ooo yen.

The entree was a rocket salad with smoked salmon, tomato, carrot and sardine en croute with a very acceptable vinaigrette. The main was a schnitzel with tomato salsa and mashed potato and the dessert was grapefruit, strawberry, fresh mint with vanilla and chocolate yoghurt ice cream. Everything was quite pleasant, and the Frenchy couple at the bar finished off the authentic feeling very nicely.

My only gripe is that it's a little bit on the dear side for what it is, and they refused to let me pay with credit card for some reason. I'd have thought 7,000+ is ok for credit card, but luckily I had cash with me.

www.cantine-shirokane.com
Tel: 03-5449-7250

Firehouse, Hongou　ファイヤーハウス本郷

2010-02-13T10:12:00.000+09:00

The website says it's "Nippon's Tastiest Burger!!!". That's a pretty tall claim, but the mozzarella and mushroom burger I had the other was pretty damn good. These guys are at Hongou which is really close to Korakuen and Tokyo Dome.

Check 'em out! They also deliver if you live within 2.5 kms...

http://www.firehouse.co.jp/

Tel: 03-3815-6014

Chinese Restaurant Naoki, Takanawadai チャイニーズレストラン直城高輪台

2010-02-10T12:07:00.005+09:00

Naoki is a stylish Chinese restaurant in Takanawadai. I recently visited on a cold winter's day to try them out. Their Sichuan suigyoza were very tasty, but the tantanmen was a bit of disappointment (I have a sneaking suspicion that they dumbed down the spiciness for this gaijin). Nevertheless I'm going to give them another go and try more items on the menu, as I think they're pretty serious about their quality, ambience and service.

http://r.tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131603/13016522/

Tel: 03-5798-3225